Archive for the ‘Roure’ Category

2013-01-12 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

Only a short day so we’re at the nearest crag.  Roure has some nice things to offer, Infierno De Cobardes, 6a+ for a warmer, then on to the very nice but too short Ones Verticales, 6b.  I had Shargamanta, 6c+ pending and thought I’d just speed-climb it but I forgot a crucial foot during the cross up crux.  Second try sends it – at last.  To finish, I’m on the hard 6c+, Esduguardabaga which has a hard start, hard next section, hard middle and … yep, hard end.  I work it a little, and should send it next time I’m here.

Now to Ca La Sofia to put up the last of the routes…

6a+   6b   6c+   6c+   6c+


Posted 2013/01/12 by allend66 in La Mussara, Rockclimbing, Roure

2012-10-14 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

Big Ivan confirmed my suspicions that yesterday Siurana was super crowded.  With the long weekend the world and his wife are in the mountains, thus we go to an unfashionable sector and get a good day in, in relative peace and quiet.  Doll De Lluna, 6a to warm up and then onto Saca La Cinta, Y Vámanos! 6b which is typical old-school La Mussara.  After the technical crack crux at the 4th, there’s a couple of rooves to get past too.  35mtrs and good for mileage though.  Shargamanta, 6c+ which I had worked out last time, spits me out, though my fault getting the feet wrong.  Next time, definitely…

Doll De Lluna, 6a

6a   6b   6c+

Posted 2012/10/14 by allend66 in La Mussara, Rockclimbing, Roure

2012-06-06 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

A warm up on Laia, 6a and Atlantida, 6a+ to get going – Mau the bou not having climbed for ages, then we leave Primitiu for Roure and I get on the recommended Tu No Vadis, 6b+ but half way up I slip off a sloper and end up straining my left hamstring.  Here’s the culprit that’s put me off climbing for a couple of weeks:

Tu No Vadis, 6b+

6a   6a+   6b+

Posted 2012/06/07 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing, Roure

2011-12-24 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

Getting over the sniffles I had, it’s been two weeks since I climbed last so no high hopes for today.  Carmen joined us (Bourici & Xell) as I was just getting started on Doll De Lluna, 6a.  La Mussara quality, and 35 meters of it.


We leave it equipped for the girls, and Bou talks me into doing the ‘classic’ Aigua Viva, 6a+.  I had a look at this way back in the day, saw the super polish and thought I’d never bother with it.  Recently, maybe 6 months ago, I sniffed round it again with Meli, but too much polish and a hard start so we walked on.  I’m glad Bou talked me into doing it today though – it is a classic.  But let’s talk about the grading: 6a+ in the refuge guide, 6b in Rockfax, but I’d easily give it 6b+… some of the hand and foot holds are like polished marble!  It’s also a lot harder than the previous “World’s Hardest 6a+” in Diedres Del Mig that has one crux, Aigua you have to fight all the way up.  An onsight that was definitely no gift.

Shargamanta, 7a   Shargamanta, 7a   Shargamanta, 7a

Carmen recommends a 7a next to it, Shargamanta.  Although, again we’re misled slightly by the frankly crap guidebookage for the area.  It’s a 7a in the Alfonso / Buxo guide of 2000, 6c+ in the refuge guide and my Rockfax claims it as a 6c.  The diagrams also indicate the use of Aigua’s anchors to the right though the description says go left up the black vertical crack and mantleshelf at the anchor.  A really hard 6c+ or easy 7a, take your pick, but the crux had me off three times.  A very nice route though, one I’ll repeat next time trying the left hand crack and higher anchor after the rockover.

6a   6a+   7a   Photos

Posted 2011/12/25 by allend66 in La Mussara, Roure

2011-06-24 La Mussara, Primitiu & Roure   Leave a comment

The morning after the night before.  Or rather the early afternoon after the night before.  I meet Eoin at 1ish and we head up to La Mussara.  Eoin’s only climbed Siurana & Arbolí so I decided Isabel (shade) would be nice.  When we arrived it was clouding over, so we changed to Primitiu.  If the sun did come out again, it would only be for a couple of hours – it enjoying shade after 4pm.

Eoin quickly sends Alabama’s, 5 & Gandalf El Gris, 5+ and cleans them.  I warm up on a very nice onsight, 3-star, pumpy, 35 meter Philadelfia, 6a+.  One of the few remaining routes on this wall that I don’t know.  There’s a thin section half way, and of course it shares the top end of Scala Dei, 6a+.  This from the Rockfax guide: “Another striking crack […] Watch out for the technical pocket pulling on the top wall which makes it stiff for the grade.  Fantastic.”  I’d agree with that, Sir.  Eoin cleans up after me though not before falling at the initial veer right.  He’ll make up for it later.

Next route is another 3-star beauty, Castor, 6a+ and I’m making great progress till the end bulge.  I clip the last, can see the belay but the roof has no foot holds and I fall missing an onsight.  Grrrr!  Same story for Ireland.  We break for lunch.

Álvaro and his sister Patricia arrive.  They mop up the left hand side of the wall and Eoin onsights Laia, 6a+ (6a in the ‘Fax!) .  Kudos – after several attempts I’ve given up on redpointing it.  Next I look at Esperó De Tardor, 5 the first route on the next wall Roure.  The start is strange and the mid section looks like my terrace – flat with lots of weeds growing over it.  Still, good to just move and clip, move and clip.  Wisely Eoin bails but I leave it open for the other two.  Eoin opens Doll De Lluna, 6a with Lacónia, 6a as an extension.  A rope rethread is needed but easy enough.  I get on the route and Álvaro & Pati marchan.  I have half his draws from leaving mine on the undergrowth route.

Time for a quicky So Far Away, 6a .  At only 3 clips (rusty old ones at that – and not even parabolts!), it’s quick alright, but explosive.  Two onsights to finish a good day.

6a+   6a+  5   6a   6a   6a   Photos

Posted 2011/06/25 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing, Roure