Archive for the ‘La Riba’ Category

2012-08-01 La Riba, Tres Pilons   Leave a comment

Jordi tells me this was the venue for the world cup back in the 80’s – it would certainly explain the polished holds.  We both send the short pumpy 6c, Llastrophobia and then try Silencio Se Vuela, 7b.  Only 12mtrs but the polish along with the heat give me no confidence in my feet which seem to have grown a self-greasing mechanism on the soles.

Silencio Se Vuela, 7b

I also try Frances Complet, 6c which was just that, I retry Silencio before Jordi sends it then we move down to Cal Grau to try another 7b, Amórrat Al Piló.  Again polished, but not bad.  Not worth making a special journey for, but if you’re passing…

6c   7b   6c   7b   7b

Posted 2012/08/02 by allend66 in La Riba, Rockclimbing, Tres Pilons

2012-03-30 La Riba, Penya Roja   Leave a comment

My mate Ernesto has gone home now, and I can safely say that I had A LOT of fun with our brief time together.  The dude is a top climber.  Sure, he tried to blag me saying he didn’t have much climbing experience, but a man knows.  Anyone who pulls off an Egyptian with such élan, then clips back handed with ease on a 6c clearly has talent.  I nice touch too I thought, when he almost got to the chains on one climb only to ‘fall’ at the last couple of moves.  Repeatedly.  He’ll be coming back sometime in April, and it would be beautiful to see and climb again…

Mau & Xell!  Too long skiing in the Pyrenees, it’s time to stop red-running and start redpointing.  Though it seems from the Whatsap™ I got at lunchtime it’s now a case of too many Red Stripes… <sigh>

Tomahauck, 6a + Illusion, 6a

Penya Roja is new for Fly, but we’re both tired from a week’s graft and don’t feel in the mood.  To warm up I combo two routes together, Tomahawk, 6a & Illusion, 6a making a sweet 35mtr journey.  It’s now too hot to climb in direct sunlight (Ernesto, you reading this?!).  Hot sweaty and tired, I set out on another 2 pitch combo.  Directa Reus, 6b+, 6b+ is 30mtrs and a real beauty, but it’s certainly a stiff 6b+.  On any other day – bam!  Onsight.  Fly hung at the last draw too.

Directa Reus, 6b+, 6b+

Here, we can see Fly’s prowess with a camera:

Directa Reus, 6b+, 6b+

We snack at the foot of the crag the go for a dip in the river, then a brewski.  Siurana tomorrow, hurrah!

6a   6a  6b+   6b+

Posted 2012/03/31 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja

2011-11-27 La Riba, Penya Roja   Leave a comment

Meli, Eoin & Ric are today’s posse at Directa & Les Placques at the mighty Penya.  We warm up on HLM, 5 & Primordials, 5+ then swap with each other.  No problems here, though the 5+ is more like a 5++!

HLM, 5

While I’m still strong, I get in on Javi’s recommendation of Cal Fer-Ho, 7a but abandon it at the 2nd clip.  Too much work for today.  I take on Directa, 6c to the right.  It’s hard, and the crux had me stumped.  It’s the second undercut seen from the ground.  But the undercut is with your right thumb and there’s no feet on the left – you arrive to the crux with your right foot in the good pocket, but you need the left to leave it, and there’s no room for a swap over.  Plus it’s overhanging and awkward.  I think it’s a right hand pinch to make changes.  Anyway, after this steady going up to the horizontal break, but there’s no decent anchor here, the Rockfax guide is wrong again, so I continue up 3 more bolts to make the 7a anchors.

Directissima, 6a+

After Meli fights with a 6a, I try Didac, 6b+ which I couldn’t even onsight.  Thin and overhanging all the way from the 4th bolt on the neighbouring route where it splits, it’s long too – 32mtrs.  Eoin struggles up Directa Reus, 6b+ which I had planned on doing today, but I’m not firing on all cylinders, so it’s best left.  Meli finishes on Aleix, 6a taking an early anchor to the left, I do the extension to the right which is marvellous, some excellent jugs and pockets, and a nice end to a somewhat disappointing day.

5   5+   (7a)   6c   6b+   6a+

Posted 2011/11/27 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja

2011-11-01 La Riba, Penya Roja   Leave a comment

With Jacob, I warm up on 30 meters of 3 star quality Directissima, 6a+ – a nice redpoint although pumpy for the first climb of the day.  While Jake’s having a rest at the crux (sorry tio!), Eoin and the posse arrive (Ric, Alex, Philip, Rang, Berta).  First pitch only for Directa Reus, 6b+ this time I don’t see a crucial foot hold and rest while Jake gets the flash.  Now to tweak a little… looking for some 3 star qual and we choose the Rockfax recommended “A must do!Panini De Paura, 6c+.

Panini De Paura, 6c+

Weighing in at a hefty 28 meters, overhanging for most of it, and quite run out, I start off full of beans, dodgily making the 3rd clip.  Then the next bolt seems miles away, and I try it twice but it just doesn’t gel for me.  This was graded at 7a in the Coronn guide, and I even wonder if we’ve got the right route!  I abandon it and let Jake have a crack at it.  He gets to where I was, and passes it – nice, I think.  He sticks the two crap hand holds to get his feet up, and makes a crap left hand and quickdraws the next bolt, then, and it all happened so quickly, he starts pulling through rope, I start paying it out, and before he can clip it he comes off the left hand and drops like a sack of horseshoes.  Giving him a slight graze to his forearm, he comes to rest spinning about 1 meter above the ledge after the 1st bolt – about a 7 meter flight.  The force of it yanks me 1 meter off the ground, spectacular.  He gets back up there and clips, rests, makes the next bolt and rests.  Doing it one bolt at a time is not on so he bails for me to try again.

I fight my way up it, going too far left at my last ditch point, but I make the draw where Jake fell, then up to the last pre-placed draw and then draw the next bolt.  Rest.  Then there’s a lo-o-o-ong sequence of moves, admittedly fairly juggy for the most part, to the next bolt.  The overhang is destroying my forearms, and I get to just below reach of the bolt and find that the left hand to quickdraw is absolutely crap and my strength is fading fast, and not enough to hold a sloper.  I fall.  The rock looks like it should be a really good hold, but it ain’t.

2nd try, the sequence of about 10 movements drains me and again I fall.  3rd try I find 2 small holes for the left hand, index finger, and middle & ring finger next to it.  Better than the sloper and I make the clip, ufff!  Then a short rest to be able to top out.  Nails hard route this, more difficult than Jarabe De Palo, 6c+.  After a short lunch, we get Efebo Sonriente, 6b done: Jake onsights, I fall, arms still pumped.  After topping out the spots of rain come, but nothing heavy.

6a+   6b+   6c+   6b

Posted 2011/11/01 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja

2011-10-23 La Riba, Penya Roja   Leave a comment

Penya Roja, a great crag.  We start up at Les Plaques, the highest section.  I open Tomahauk, 6a which is nice but polished.  Hell, there’s so much polish here it’s testament to the greatness of the crag.  Tomahauk is just to the left of a bolted on plaque put up by the Centre Excursionista celebrating the 50th anniversary of the first climbs put up here in 1942!  Eoin sends it, and Ric struggles but gets up it.  Eoin & I move onto Memphis, 6a+, 6c+ though we only do the first pitch.  The crux is up top, very thin but some great pocket pulling to get there.

Tomahauk, 6a

Yesterday, Javi recommended to me Cal Fer-ho, 7a and I was full of beans to try it, but before this, Eoin jumps on the excellent 30 meter Directissima, 6a+.  As he gets 10 meters off the ground, the heavens open and we have a downpour that wets us through in no time flat.  We all scurry around trying to collect material and clothes to keep everything dry.  We are all soaked in minutes.  I take photos of Eoin, seemingly oblivious to the heavy shower, and he makes the intermediate lower-off.  “Keep going!“ I shout up to him and he sticks his arm out trying to feel for rain, but the route is really well protected.  Bone dry.  The rain stops as he lowers down, and Diego jumps on it.  He too lowers down leaving it mounted and Ric ties in to top-rope.  I belay him and the rains come again – stronger this time and everything is soaking wet.  Fortunately he tops out and cleans everything, but we pack up wet and dejected.  We hit the refuge for carajillos and beers.  Good job I had a change of dry clothes in the car boot…

6a   6a+   Photos

Posted 2011/10/23 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja

2011-07-25 La Riba, Penya Roja   Leave a comment

A few odd drops of rain fell while we were at Pedestal, the first sector at Penya Roja just after ticking the first route of the day, Circulo Vicioso, 6a.  Imagine… rain added to the super polish of La Vía De Bryan, 6b+ and Álvaro in his supershite Quechuas too!  Good thing it was literally a few odd drops, it’s already like a skating rink…

Claudio romps up the 7a, Más Dificil Todavía making it look easy.  I couldn’t even redpoint Bryan, after the punishment of the 7a on Sunday, the bouldering compe on Saturday, and one week’s rest (never again!).  Did I mention that my forearms are killing me?

We move up to La Directa where I refresh my memory on Directissima, 6a+ 32 meters of slightly polished quality jug pulling.  The Argentine combines the first 2 pitches of Directa Reus, 6b+, 6b+ but we decline and he strips it.  I have the first pitch worked from a couple of years ago, but my forearms are in no fit state right now.  I’m tired but it’s nice climbing.

6a   6b+   6a+

Posted 2011/07/26 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja, Rockclimbing

2011-06-25 La Riba, Tres Pilons & Penya Roja   Leave a comment

I join Rockteam™ and we head for La Riba.  Early morning is sunny in Penya Roja , so we kill some time at Tres Pilons.  Warm up on a 6c Llastrofobia.  Nice and juggy and a bit of a classic I’m told.  While the rope is there, I try toproping the 7b Silencio Se Vuela that shares the anchor up top.  I get to two thirds up where the crux is.  Marc too.

After faffing around, we try Macarena, 6b+ which I have to work before redpointing.  Nice but painful on the fingers.  Time to move… the sun is encroaching on our bit of shade.  We end up going to Penya Roja, now in shade, but only for one quick route: Eclípsi, 6a+.  Right next to the classic 3-star pumpy La Via De Brian, 6b+Eclípsi was polished and a difficult 6a+, on a par with the 6c!  The summer heat kills our energy.

Rockteam In Shade

6c   7b   6b+   6a+

Posted 2011/06/25 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja, Rockclimbing, Tres Pilons