Archive for the ‘Llanymynech’ Category

2017-07-05 Llanymynech, Nomad Wall, Red Wall   Leave a comment

Arriving with sun on all walls, we warm up on the shitty lower section of Nomad Wall – at least giving shade to the belayer.  We only have to wait about an hour for Red Wall to become shady, so we use the time to tick Dentine, 5+, Pull ‘Em Out, 6a+ and Another Filling, 6b+.

2017-07-05 Nomad Wall

With the bird ban restricting climbing from March up to June 30th, we fear that Red Wall will be dusty from lack of traffic.  We get on Long John Codling, 7a but it shuts me down completely at the crux at the 9th bolt.  It is dusty, but the crux is rather beastly for a 7a.  Sweat is dripping of us so we don’t invest any more time on it today.

5+   6a   6b+   7a   7a


Posted 2017/07/06 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-10-04 Llanymynech, Grid Iron   Leave a comment

Bah Bah Black Sheep, 6b+ and Gaza Stripper, 6b serve as warmers before I try to get past the damn overlap on Pew, 7a+.  A work in progress….

6b+   6b   7a+   7a+

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-09-07 Llanymynech, Red Wall   Leave a comment

As the newest member of our 7a+ onsight/flash club remarked yesterday, “[even though it has several climbs in the Clwyd Top-50 list, the Red Wall] doesn’t look very inspiring…”, And I’ve got to hand it to him.  It has the look of a very quarried, very man-made looking wall, with lots of unnatural angles, and plenty of dust & grime.  And the potential for taking a fall, and landing onto a nasty out-jutting bit of rock doesn’t really inspire confidence.  I do however plan to have a look at all the climbs on the aptly named Red Wall, and we continue today with the other easiest climb, Clematis, 6b+ in the corner. 

Clematis, 6b+

A sustained climb and intriguing warm up, I use it to lower down and clean off all the holds on the next route, the nice looking Poison Ivy, 7a+ on the short end wall.  I missed the onsight of this particular 7a+ a couple of days ago and wanted to get back on it.  Meanwhile, Marc smashes it, and the sun comes onto it for around 1 hour and then it’s back in shade.  I pulled off a couple of holds on this last time, but I manage to clip the anchors, a very long 35mtrs away without much drama. 

Poison Ivy, 7a+   Poison Ivy, 7a+

A super route, but it isn’t 7a as stated on sportsclimbs.  A recommended tick to anyone working 7a+.  Not so good if you’re new to 7a.

To finish the day, we cruise up A Night Torchlight Parade, 6c well, some of us do…

6b+   7a+   6c

Posted 2016/09/08 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-08-29 Wales, Llanymynech, Red Wall   Leave a comment

Red Wall, the dark, dusty very ‘quarried’ looking wall below the golf club is full of lines on the still-to-do list.  It also has a few of the Top-50 routes for Clwyd.  After warming up on 39 And Counting, 6a on the Grid Iron, we nip over to Red Wall and welcome shade.  Another warmer on Day Of The Triffids, 6b+ and I start on Poison Ivy, 7a.  Given 7a on Gary’s website, but after trying it, I would agree with the 7a+ grade given on UKC.  It’s hard work up to the hands-free rest at half way, then it’s steady 6b+/c climbing to the anchors.  Dusty but nice.  I even managed to pull off a couple of holds, which won’t help.  Recommended.

Poison Ivy, 7a+

6a   6b+   7a+   7a+

Posted 2016/09/04 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-06-06 Llanymynech, Grid Iron Wall   Leave a comment

We warm up on the short and easy routes on Foreigner Wall, namely Foreign Muck, 6a and Herman The German, 6a+ before we get to play on the real climbs on Grid Iron.  With the beta more or less worked out on Strawberry Tubin, 7a+ from a while back, I’m keen to get this in the bag.  I need a refresher in the middle crux and the top crux was straight forward, so with the draws in place, I nail it 2nd go.  It’s a nice climb, although it is simply not 7b as stated on UKC, Rockfax,, etc.  There’s a hands-free rest after the first crux, two-thirds the way up and before the final tough moves, so this takes the edge off a little.  The bottom section is dusty and dirty, but it is a worthwhile climb.

We finish on Sack The Juggler, now with an extension up to the top of the wall (35mtrs), still rated as 6b+.  The final moves over to the half-way anchor (the original top) feel clumsy though and the new top has some delicate moves too.

6a   6a+  7a+  7a+   6b+

Posted 2016/07/11 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-06-01 Llanymynech, Foreigner Wall   Leave a comment

A nice easy day today as I’m test driving a new rope partner (just kidding, buddy!), and we don’t have a long rope for the big lines on Grid Iron.

So with limited experience of Foreigner Wall, we do a few routes here that we haven’t done.  The whole wall is an easy outing, looks fairly uninspiring but they are all under 20mtrs (with the exception of the first 3 lines that have a second pitch up to 35mtrs).  Foreign Muck, 6a and FCUK, 5+ to get started and with my rope partner already reeling, I get a chance to get on the lovely 6c+, Jack The Smuggler – usually a grade I dislike, but this is a great line.

After my detour onto harder ground, I open Troi Milles Voies, 5+ for Lou to practice.  Another top-rope then she leads it – well done!

Troi Milles Voies, 5

We finish the day on Frenchie, 5+ and Foreign Legion, 6a.

6a   5+   6c+   5+   5+   6a

Posted 2016/06/28 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-05-30 Wales, Llanymynech   2 comments

Technically, we’re not actually climbing in Wales, as the two sectors we visit today, Grid Iron Wall, and Nomad Wall, are a stone’s throw across the border into England.

Coming Of Age, 6a has one hard cruxy move on it with the rest being a steady amble to the chains, and is a reasonable warm-up.  But it’s very hot with the sun on most of Grid Iron, so we move into shade on Nomad Wall.  I had always wanted to do the 50mtr 6a, Southern Mountains and now was the perfect opportunity.  It’s a fun route… there’s a hard move to get past the first clip, and it’s steady climbing up to the intermediate lower-off (we didn’t want to do it in one giant pitch as the rope drag would’ve been bad).  So for 17 draws in total for the whole route, I take 10 thinking this will get me half way, but I run out of gear and miss the last bolt.  To the intermediate lower-off is a tight 35mtrs and I bring up my second.  The 2nd pitch to the top of the wall is only another 15mtrs, but there’s a little bit of a sting in the tale!  Great route, and recommended.

Now in the shade, I put the draws on Curfew, 6b+ for Becky to project.  A nice route this, in the Top50 list on UKC.  To finish a good day I run up Gaza Stripper, 6b, again 35mtrs.

6a   6a   6b+   6b

Posted 2016/06/12 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing