Archive for the ‘Margalef’ Category

2012-11-29 Margalef, Cingle De Les Solanes   Leave a comment

Sun, blue sky, a beautiful day.  It was a little cold first thing but things soon improved.  Warm-up climb (actually in sector Racó De Les Espadelles) was a block start Punto De Gravidad Zero, 6b+ a nice climb, though we had to start from a tree stump.  A nice sector this, but it suffers with the same problem as a lot of places here in Margalef – soil erosion, many climbs have piles of rocks at the start or logs with notches cut into them leaning up against the wall so you can reach the starting holds.  We move onto Sobredosi De Rocaina, 6c+ but I’m not enjoying it and bail leaving clean up duties to PJPunt X, 6b+ was a reasonable climb, and then a nice Que Pasa Neng? 7a.  During this time, Mr. Julian arrives and onsights a new 7b+, 8a+ and proceeds to work La Bungada, 9a while a photographer lurks. 

2012-11-29 03 Cingles De Les Solanes   La Bungada, 9a

Oddly, the photographer doesn’t pay the slightest bit of attention as I absolutely crush the very nice Gest D’Inocencia, 6b+.  PJ more or less flashes the new 7b+ and as a finish to the day I onsight a lovely 6c, Guirlache at the start of Espadelles.  Nice sector.

6b+   6c+   6b+   7a   6b+   6c


2012-11-28 Margalef   Leave a comment

We started off this morning with projects pending in sector Cabernet, very nice but very high and exposed to wind.  We only did La Expo, 6b+ nice, but with heavy cloud the rock temperature numbed our fingers so we had to bail.  We chose the roadside Cingles De Molí in the other valley.  By this time the sun was trying to shine through.  Two new routes put up on dirty rock, a 6a+ (right) and a 6b (left, shared anchor) – nothing special, then I tick the 6b+, Pepe Gotero i Otilio minus the block start, which was nice.  PJ wanted to try Tsunami, 7c in El Laboratorio, a crazy sector of very hard routes, all apparently bouldery.

2012-11-28 2 El Laboratorio

I try the nice Chachi Qui Chapi, 7a in the adjacent sector, Can Torxa but missed the onsight, though neither was I that worried about it.  It’s so cold that you cool down very quickly between climbs.

6b+   6a+   6b   6b+   7a

2012-09-23 Margalef, Culample4   Leave a comment

Margalef camping was full and stank of garbage and drains.  There were dog turds everywhere: what kind of pig doesn’t pick up their dog’s shit in a public place?  Space where someone could erect a tent?  And there were human shit and toilet paper strewn everywhere.  Someone had even shit at the base of the crag.  I’ll write that again – some people – plural – had taken a dump at the base of the crag, not 2 feet away from the climbs.  What if you put your rope tarp down on the ground, or worse your rope without a tarp and it gets covered in human excrement?  The sector was Reggae, for those interested in knowing where to avoid, though it looks as though everywhere in Margalef is getting steadily worse for the problem of human faeces.  And the faeces they leave behind.

We started in Sector Reggae with shade before Culample4, so do Mazapan Del Turkestan, 6a+ & Full Del Estambul, 6a+.  Over to my pending project Escaquietor, 7a+ which was put on hold when Yohann left and the heat and the flies arrived some 6 months ago.  I was optimistically expecting to send it first try, but I had forgotten the crux sequence (that had one climber hanging after he had just sent the 7c+ next to it).  Definitely a hard 7a+, I placed all the draws and after a rest retried it.  But I still couldn’t send it, and now my fingers weren’t up for another try.  We did do however the nice El Batmóvil, 6c to warm down. 

I was going to spend another night here, but it isn’t so pleasant with the smell, the shit, the overcrowding, and the noise…

6a+   6a+   7a+   7a+   6c

Posted 2012/09/24 by allend66 in Culample4, Margalef, Reggae, Rockclimbing

2012-05-26 Margalef, Culample4   Leave a comment

Heat.  Flies.  And the dirt on the floor that’s as fine as icing sugar that just gets everywhere.  After today, I’ll shelve Margalef till the autumn, and it would have been nice to end with a send, my 7a+ that’s ready to be ticked, but I didn’t send anything today.  It was Yohann’s fault of course, he wanted to flash a couple of routes in Chorreras while waiting for the last 30 minutes of direct sunlight to disappear, so we do Lolo Cat, 6b and Peus de Plom, 6c.  So instead of getting on Escaquietor, 7a+ fresh, I’m already a little tired and get past the crux, clip the next taking too much time and energy to do it, then fall trying for a 2finger pocket after the mono.

I try Whisky Compadre, 7b+ but don’t get too far on it – it’s noticeably harder than Bésame Mucho, 7b+.  I end the day with a pitiful attempt to send Bat Movil, 6c.

6b   6c   7a+   7b+   6c

Posted 2012/05/28 by allend66 in Culample4, Margalef

2012-05-24 Margalef, Ca La Marta   Leave a comment

A swift warm up on unnamed route number 7, a 27mtr 6b onsight to set me up for my 7b project, Printemps Arabe.  First crack leaves me floundering at the crux again.  I can’t stick the slopers on the bulge that pushes you off the wall.  I know what has to be done, but I need more strength in my fingers.  Meanwhile, Yohann plays on his 7c project Los Sobraos.  Another French dude onsights it and the German machine gets past the crux and falls on the jugs.

2nd try on Arabe and I get halfway through the crux, hanging from the two slopers pockets, feet off the wall.  Find a footing, left hand crimp, right hand crimp, and I forget my left foot before lunging for the left hand jug and salvation.  So I’m off and lower down to save strength for my next try.  But I’m tired – even getting up to the crux on my 3rd try was harder than it should have been, and I fall again at the crux, this time not even making the second sloper pocket.  I’m done for the day.  Yohann can’t send either, and his 7c will be waiting for his next visit, as will my 7b.  Here’s the German machine on an 8b+:

La Preso Dels Monstres, 8b+

6b   7b   7b   7b   Photos

Posted 2012/05/26 by allend66 in Ca La Marta, Margalef

2012-05-20 Margalef, Culample4   Leave a comment

Escaquietor, 7a+ continues to frustrate as Remy, yesterday on a 7c hangs at the crux.  Instead of warming up on it the same, I onsight Mas Vale Ser Freky Que Maricón De Playa, 6c which has a thin start then solid climbing for 30mtrs.  After a short rest I get on the 7a+ and start the crux sequence well: clip quickdraw dropping right hand to right low inverted pocket, both feet onto the face, flag left foot out right, left hand crimp, left foot high, left hand pocket, right foot knee high, right hand high pocket, push up, left hand half knuckle mono, left foot onto the original crimp, push up to deep 3-finger pocket but I’m falling not quite getting into the 3-finger.  I bail to save strength for the next try, and hopefully, send.

Yohann sends Bésame Mucho, 7b+ and after a rest I retry the 7a+ but today is not the day.  I need full strength for the shallow pockets that are also at bad angles.  I clean the route, remaining to be done, maybe later this week.

Escaquietor, 7a+

6c  7a+   7a+

Posted 2012/05/21 by allend66 in Culample4, Margalef

2012-05-19 Margalef, Ca La Marta   Leave a comment

Polished routes here in one of Margalef’s popular sectors.  We send the harder than it should have been Pubilla, 6b and then Yohann’s tweaking it on a 7c, Los Sobraos which apparently has one hard move.  However, I try the newish route Printemps Arabe, 7b and it’s nice but the crux is beating me.  I come down and rest for another try later, though trying it twice more doesn’t get me past the crux, located at the halfway roof-bulge.

Los Sobraos, 7c

I was so tired I couldn’t even send Hornimans, which at 6b+ is a grade normally always onsighted.

6b   7b   7b   7b   6b+   Photos

Posted 2012/05/20 by allend66 in Ca La Marta, Margalef