Archive for the ‘Mont Ral’ Category

2012-11-02 Mont Ral, Tania   Leave a comment

Taking a small group from Centre Excursionista Maspujols, we set up topropes on the new routes at Tania (Totxo Tacha). 

2012-11-02 15 Tania   El Cargol De Maspujols, 6a+

Among them, El Cargol De Maspujols, 6a+ named for the 40th anniversary of the CEM.

Posted 2012/11/03 by allend66 in Mont Ral, Rockclimbing, Tocho Taxa

2012-08-20 Mont Ral, Caving   Leave a comment

I was reminded of an English buddy’s introduction to caving… they started exploring caves to get in from the rain, only here we were getting away from the heat wave that’s presently on vacation from Africa. 

2012-08-20 08 Mont Ral   2012-08-20 26 Mont Ral   2012-08-20 28d

High 30’s low 40’s and it’s brutal outside, but get inside the Cova de Mont Ral and it’s like walking into an air-conditioned room.  With topos and information found here, we take our initiation into caving.  Not quite rock-climbing, but close to it.  Stirling support from the Centre Excursionista Maspujols, we do the first cave in around 3 hours (6 people), and start to have a look at the 2nd cave, just 40mtrs away from the 1st’s exit rappel.  This second cave has one in & out so after a quick look around the main cavern after a 14mtr abseil, we don’t explore it’s depths, instead we admire the bats hanging from the ceiling, the enormous Tiger mosquitos that are sheltering from the heat, and jumar back up and into darkness of the night.  We could see our breath it was so cold – very nice but after several hours in shorts and T-shirts it was starting to get uncomfortable.

2012-08-20 21a   2012-08-20 16b   2012-08-20 33 Mont Ral

Photos & CEM Photos

Posted 2012/08/21 by allend66 in Mont Ral

2012-08-05 Mont Ral, Els Gegants   Leave a comment

I redpoint the superb Calipso, 6c to warm up, thus paving the way for Maurici to take an 8mtr fall from the last bolt.  Misreading the overhang top section of the 6b+ to the right, another good line, Eslava, I fall too.  I followed the diagonal line right to the next bolt, ignoring the huge pocket way over to the left <smacks own forehead>.  After this Meu opens the long 7b Mariscal, Fil De Cobi in Esperó No.  I try it but the crux doesn’t let me pass.  A nice line, some nice pockets, but the crux is thin.  I’ll shelve it and come back to it later.

Mariscal, Fil De Cobi, 7b   2012-08-05 07 Espero No   Mariscal, Fil De Cobi, 7b

6c   6b+   7b

Posted 2012/08/06 by allend66 in Els Gegants, Espero No, Mont Ral, Rockclimbing

2012-03-04 Mont Ral, Totxo Tacha   Leave a comment

Trying out the new routes we set, now bolted, before the rain started to spit down.  Still plenty of work to do here, El Cargol De Maspujols, 6a looks to be in good company…

Posted 2012/03/07 by allend66 in Mont Ral, Tocho Taxa

2012-01-08 Mont Ral, L’Arrepenjada & Els Gegants   Leave a comment

Alvaro, Claudio, Siscu, Cristina.  Mont Ral and some really nice climbing here, we start at L’Arrepenjada, though with Siscu bou not having touched rock for 3 months, we’re back to warming up sub 6 style!  Pandilla, 5+ isn’t an easy 5+, it gives Siscu disco leg, and I redpoint.  Next climb is El Bloquieg Del Guaje, 6b which is hard for the grade.  Siscu hangs twice, Cristina doesn’t even try it, and I redpoint: Mont Ral 0 – Derek 2.  Then we get on the last line on the wall, a previous onsight Kin Kony, 6b

0-3 now, and we move around to Els Gegants to mop up a beautiful 6c+, Requiem Por Un Volvo.  I missed the onsight last time, but notch the score up to 0-4 today, what a quality route.  2 stars in Rockfax.  Should be 3.

Claudio wants to tweak the level a bit – fine by me, so we head round looking for a mid 7 to try.  He opens the brutish Isidru, 7b+.  30 meters of fight: a block start, a brutal block roof, a thin mid section, and all of it overhanging.  Score now 1-4.

Isidru, 7b+   Isidru, 7b+

For the last climb of the day, the three of us redpoint the superb qual-fest Ella Es Así, 6c.  Alvaro can tick this one off now!  End score: 1-5.  A great day.

5+   6b   6b   6c+   7b+   6c   Photos

Posted 2012/01/08 by allend66 in L'Arrepenjada, Mont Ral

2011-11-12 Mont Ral, L’Arrepenjada & Els Gigants   Leave a comment

It’s now time to be looking for sunny crags.  Alvaro and his bous – Cristina, Paco, & Dani are in Mont Ral.  One gnarly descent to L’Arrepenjada and we get on the 6a+ Si Plou Fas Grau while, kudos, Dani warms up on Ella Es Así, 6c.  Poor Alvaro – he’s 5 weeks without climbing and the 6a+ kicks his butt.  Paco sends it and Alv cleans up.  Cristina gets on Ella and nearly flashes it, respect.

I’d been looking at Rana, 7a for a while now, so I give it a go.  The crux is at the top, but getting up there is no walk in the park either.  Super high 1st bolt, nifty undercut, thin slab, wicked vertical crack.  I give myself a double ‘mistu’ on my index and middle finger on both right and left hands just before getting to the crux.  Ouw!  That hurts when it’s cold…  I work the thin crux a couple of times before topping out my 10th 7a.  Still looking for an onsight – hell, still trying to redpoint one!  Cristina tops it then Dani works it a couple of times before cleaning – I’ll try it again but on another day.

Calipso, 6c

After Lunch we head down to Els Gigants for the classic and oft recommended Calipso, 6cDani opens it and I try the neighbouring 6c+ Requiem Per Un Volvo.  It’s a bit odd to start, left right left right, it’s like a slalom.  Once I get into the rhythm of the brute I romp up it taking great pockets up to the overhang.  Here things get complicated – the initial pull out onto the roof is thin (one knuckle) but ok.  I ascend making another couple of clips, and don’t see a ‘thank God’ side pull, instead taking a shallow sloping hole.  Here’s where I’m off.  Disappointed, I should have onsighted this.  After a rest I send the rest of the route running on fumes at the anchors, 2 stars in Rockfax, and I’d agree with that.

Next is the classic Calipso, 6c with which I manage to salvage a flash.  Quality route – one of those that doesn’t seem to diminish with a little polish, and it is only a little too.  I stop at times to watch Alvaro fighting the 6c+, some great entertainment there bou!

A superb day, if a little cold, I’ll be back here soon I hope.

6a+   7a   6c+   6c   Photos

Posted 2011/11/12 by allend66 in Els Gegants, L'Arrepenjada, Mont Ral

2011-08-27 Mont Ral, Terra Negra & L’Arrepenjada   Leave a comment

A full week without climbing after the pure sweetness of Cavallers last weekend.  I wasn’t feeling particularly strong today but Rik was game to tick some routes – usual problem: routes low in the grade with shade.  We opt for easy street at Black Paw, Mont Ral.  There was only a couple of hours of direct sunlight to cope with then shade arrived.  Rik opened El Tio Lila, 4+ and L’Il·luminat, 4+ next to it back to back, being as they’re only 3 bolts each.  I open Trossos Grossos, 5+ for him to romp up and he missed the final clip.  And almost fell.

We move up to the higher ledge to nail Tula, Gandula, Abdula, 5 and the initial bulge beat Rik so I opened it for him to toprope.  Feeling destroyed, Rik tells me he’s toast so I should look for something for me, and I had scoped the east face of the pillar down at L’Arrepenjada, having played on the west face and been impressed by the routes (I have Rana, 7a as a pending project, but today isn’t the right day for it).  From right, there’s a 5, 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b.

Having warmed up I get straight on the end 6b, Kin Kony.  A nice onsight this, even if I didn’t read it well.  The overhang’s a little steep and thin, but crimp what there is and feet up.  There’s no shortage of holds either, unlike other 6bs but what there is is small.  Some of it juggy, some fingery and small.  Nice.  As Rik’s not climbing, I pull the rope through and tie in for the neighbouring 6b, El Bloqueig Del Guaje.  More sustained, and a tad longer, this was constant climbing, with no real places for rest, though you could recouperate a little strength here and there.  The block the name refers to is in the middle of the wall and is overhanging.  Some nice movements to get past the bulge and continue up to fine handholds, all the way to the anchor.  Another really nice onsight.  We break for lunch.

Rik has a try at opening the 5+, Pandilla but his forearms are done for the day.  I open it and strip it, wondering how this beauty had escaped my attentions all these years.  As a cool-down climb I onsight the 6a+ next to it, La Pastera Del Dimoni.  The first two bolts have been removed making the first clip over the diagonal break some 8-9 mts up, though the climbing is easy to get there.  Some nice thinnish holds above but always pleasurable.  A nice end to a nice day.

4+   4+   5+   5   6b   6b   5+   6a+