With the sun on it, we are back at Castle Inn.  We do two unknown routes, around 5+/6a to the right of the main wall.  But then we go over to the excellent Fine View Wall on the left.  The rock is simply the best, incredible grip, solid and with nice moves too.  Indian Summer, 6a+ & As You Like It, 6b+ both have 2 stars and they are well worth seeking out.

From here, we go back to Penmaen Head where I had spied a Spanish-looking 7a.  So after a quick re-warm up on Snowdrop, 6a+ (nice!) I’m onto Clogau Gold, 7a.  There’s a nice shake out at the 4th bolt just before the crux.  Which had me stumped.  It looked like I had to traverse right before going up too high, as the holds run out.  I also spotted a couple of chalked slopers, but with three people, now is not really the time to be working a route.  I top out and strip it taking note for next time.  The sun has gone in and the wind’s picked up now.  Off-Route does a few 6as on the same wall, Railway Buttress then we go up to Expressway Wall where there are some quality climbs. The Quarrywoman, 6b+ deserving all 3 of its stars then we do Ryan’s Route, 6a+ – the sort of climbing that I could just lose myself in all day long.  Beautiful.

A quick 6a, Aphelion as the light fades and we finish tired and satisfied.

6a   6a   6a+   6b+   6a+   7a   6b+   6a+   6a

Armed with the 2nd edition of A55 Sports Climbs, we head up to north Wales to new ground.  With plenty on our hitlist, we decide upon a nice crag just by Colwyn Bay.  Penmaen Head looks nice and has quite a few starred routes, so we jump on a few short easy routes t the end of the crag just to see how much we can get done.  Tan Y Lan Kids, 5, Big Up The Lizard, 5+ & Richard II 1399, 6a+ all share the same anchor so we do the three, though it wasn’t a bad idea – even the 5 was a little smooth dusty and felt hard.  So with a measure of the new rock, I get on the fabulous looking Blitzy’s Jug, 6a+ (2 stars) and enjoy every moment.

  

Next to it is the 2-star Flowstone Shuffle, 6b+ but it suffers with seepage and some key holds are wet.  What should have been a tough pumpy onsight (slightly overhanging all the way) had me dangling trying to climb around slimy dripping tufas.  Nice route, I’ll come back to it when it’s dry.

Another 2 nice lines with one anchor, Double Helix, 6a+ and Go With The Flow, 6a are very worthwhile and then we move up to a striking looking line Flaschenburste Crack, 6a+ which was excellent.  With the car on a 4hr parking limit, we pack up for Castle Inn crags, closer to the camping.

Old but good routes at the main wall make this end to the day very pleasing. Route 2, 6a & School Mam, 6a were a little polished and we tick Green Fingers, 6b and Route 1, 5.  A full day – great stuff.

  

5   5+   6a+   6a+   6b+   6a+   6a   6a+   6a   6a   6b   5