Archive for the ‘Can Melafots’ Category

2012-12-01 Siurana, Can Melafots   Leave a comment

Hmmm.  Can Melafots – super hard for the grade, polished, most of the climbs with bouldery starts, what’s not to like?  I do Yu Vea, 6a+ and repeat Viernes 13, 6a+ before retrying Pizza De Piña, 7a.  I tried this back in the day but regret getting back on it immediately.  Fortunately Frank cleans it and I can forget it.  During the meanwhilst, Jack & Cris show up for a teary farewell.  “Yeah, forget Piña dude, get on Hostia, it’s much better..”

Which is what we do, after a goodbye kiss on both cheeks. 

I wouldn’t mind but I was bending down at the time  Open-mouthed smile  (…I know you’re reading this, Bigmon!…)

Hostia, 7b has another polished bouldery start but the quality soon improves, – I’m told.  I try it but bail, not even a toprope.  I give Matteus a belay on a Der Palo Terete, 7c another bouldery horror.  There’s time for another route but I couldn’t be bothered.

6a+   6a+   7a

Posted 2012/12/03 by allend66 in Can Melafots, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-10-23 Siurana, Can Gans Dionis   Leave a comment

Opting for racking up mtrs instead of difficulty, we head to Gans Dionis where there are some new routes.  We warm up on Benji, 6a and then the 6a+, Nunca Mais has Javi pulling on a draw, with its technical style.  I had Agonía, 6c+ pending after last time, and so now work out the beginning.  With my excellent beta, both Jack & Cris send it.  Annoyingly I had to repeat it after getting the start right, but then pinging off the thin side-pull at the end of the difficult section.  Here’s Cristina flagging onto two thin crimps from a side-pull:

Agonia, 6c+

We only do another difficult 6b, El Mellau that shares a super polished start with one of the old routes.  We both flash, but only just.

Stopping at Can Melafots on the way back to the tent, we both do what is possibly the hardest 5+ in the world, Llobató.  A new climber just starting to lead 5+ would have a shock with these ‘easy’ routes in Melafots.  Old school.

6a   6a+   6c+  6c+   6b   5+

2012-10-22 Siurana, Ca L’Isabel   Leave a comment

After 3 days of rain I was full of beans to get close and personal with Siurana’s limestone.  We warm up in Can Melafots first on La Mare De La Sardineta, 6b then repeat the nice Gat Reggae, 6c before we move up to 7a in IsabelGora TETA M. has a roof problem early on and we all try it different ways.  Jack flashes, the rest of us need another go.  While I was waiting, I try the 7a next to it, Com Mes Grans, Mes Burros but it’s like the 3-bolt wonder L’Home Braç in Arboli… one super fierce block move and nothing else.

Gora TETA M. 7a

To warm down after I reach Gora’s chain, we return to Melafots to do Escal Que, 6b and Derbi Paleta, 6a+.  It should be noted that Derbi Paleta has had a substantial sized breakage, now making it a lot harder than 6a+.  Just above the start to the left, it’s now maybe 6b+ or 6c.

6b   6c   7a   7a   7a   6b   6a+

2012-08-08 Siurana, Can Melafots   Leave a comment

A short time to climb so Can Melafots as it’s 2 minutes’ walk from the car.  Viernes 13, 6a+ a nice warm up, then we do the nice Gat Reggae, 6c with a difficult start.  Another block start 7a, Rémulo & Romo, and I get past the stiff start, but fall at the next section.  Only 18mtrs but it’s a hard 7a.  Not worth the send.

6a+   6c   7a

Posted 2012/08/11 by allend66 in Can Melafots, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-08-02 Siurana, Can Melafots   Leave a comment

The classic Pizza De Pinya, 7a kicked my backside when I tried it ages ago, so I wanted to mop up this great line.  We warm up on Derbi Paleta, 6a+ and Escal Que, 6b both old and both old school difficult.

Deshinibeix-te, 6b

Right next to them there’s another 6b and two 6c, but seeing the quality we move on to Pizza.  There’s a block move to get past the first bolt, then thin meandering climbing up to the roof.  I couldn’t send it – I felt like a child haunted by memories of fear by a not particularly scary thing but trapped in a regressed state of mind.  Still an awesome climb though, and Paco almost onsights it but blows it at the last move right under (and to the right) of the chain!  We also try Dishinibeix-te, 6b+, Toni’s 2008 POS, then onto the block start of May Thing Song A Les Zinc And Punk, 7a – typical of the start of Melafots – ridiculously hard move to get of the ground then average climbing.  We’ll return to send Pizza & Hostía, 7b.

6a+   6b   7a   6b+   7a

Posted 2012/08/03 by allend66 in Can Melafots, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2011-07-16 Siurana, Can Facil, Reserva India, Can Melafots   Leave a comment

Well, after taking some time off, last weekend in Siurana (the yolk of the egg) was as follows: Can Facil, Esteve Martinez, 6a then a second onsight Petrivia, 6b.  The sun’s already on the rock so we choose Mr Smoid, 6b+ as the last climb before moving.  The roof problem has a really shitty triangular left hand hold to reach a half good pocket with the right.  Another couple of hands before the thank-God hold to clip, but I slip off before the goodun.  The fall was clean but frustrating.  Should’ve nailed it.

Reserva India, north facing and shadowy throughout the day should have been a good experience.  The perpetual waterfall halfway on the crag (probably from the camping) makes the approach a little treacherous (slip on the wet rock and you’ll drop 10 feet into a world of shrub and hurt).  The warm up climb Apache, 5+ is the easiest on the wall and for me it wasn’t a good line.  The rock’s very smooth, thin of features and similar to Ca L’Auep – the polished Richard in Arbolí.  Thanks, but no thanks.

Up to Can Melafots – now in shade at 4pm, to Disídia Col·lectiva, 6b+, fantastic route except the block start.  The super high 1st clip and the block start on Gat Reggae, 6c means a conservative approach and placing the first draw while stripping Meconi, 6a next to it.  As I have this, I try Viernes 13, 6a+ the other side.  Nice onsight and redpoint repeat of Meconi, though Gat Reggae is shelved for another day.

6a   6b   6b+  5+   6b+   6a+   6a

2011-07-09 Siurana, Can Marges Abaix & Can Melafots   Leave a comment

Camper van packed with sleeping bags, we set out for Siurana – Can Marges Lower, as we have to find some easy climbs.  I open Currupipi, 5 for Lola who has a gammy ankle still, so is not 100%.  It’s a little polished – Can Marges has seen thousands of rockshoes since the first great lines went up back in the day.  After this I open Can Fanga, 5+ and Miquel seemed to turn it into a 6c by going a little to the left.  Here Lola, Miquel and the tyke go back to the camper van. leaving Jacob and myself to work a little.  Early afternoon shade is a relief and we set to work:  Pixapins, 6a+ is a tough little 6a+, but we sent it cleanly with no problems.  Miquel’s recommendation of Esquivapins, 6c foiled us – I tried 4 times and still couldn’t redpoint, 5 times for J who also couldn’t.  It’s nice, but I didn’t want to waste too much energy and time on it – we have all weekend and there are other climbs waiting!  This is a project for another day, to really concentrate on it.  We wrap up the sector with a climb I’d spotted before but have never tried Extremoduro, 6b+ just left of the 6a+, and was happy with a fast and clean onsight – flash For J. It has a heavy overhang start, but speed helps in these situations.

We pack up and go looking for the camper van.  Upon seeing the empty space where the old VW was, we kill a little time by climbing in Can Melafots.  I’d recommended Gat Reggae, 6c to Jacob and we went over to try it.  A slight error by me, he starts up the neighbouring 6a route Meconi and on the way down puts a draw on the Gat’s first clip – Gat Reggae having 2 cruxes: the first a block start with a high first clip, and 2nd a sequence of moves half way that, though not hard, if you get the sequence wrong you’re likely to fall.  Before I tie-in to flash Meconi, some friends of J’s offer us a try on Pizza De Pinya, 7a .  With draws in place I opt for bash – it being a mythical route.  With occasional advice from below I clamber up to the first crux but cant stick it.  Gotta keep training for this one.  Pere cleans it easily and gives me a few tips for the next time.  Now I clean the 6a (another fine route) and we pack up and have a beer at the camping.  Lola & Miquel join us soon after.  Tomorrow, more work!

5   5+   6a+   6c  6b+   (7a)   6a   Photos