Archive for the ‘Can Parásit’ Category

2012-12-25 Siurana, Can Parasit   Leave a comment

More fog in Maspujols, so after the usual round of Skyping the fam to say Merry Christmas, I’m up at Can Parásit in perfect climbing conditions.  An easy day today, though the 7a stubbornly refuses to be sent.

White Christmas

Ateva, 6a+, Raspútin, 6a, La Marabunta, 6a+, Libertarias, 7a, Libertarias, 7a.

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Posted 2012/12/25 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-09-22 Siurana, Can Marges   Leave a comment

When I saw Ramon floundering like a fish out of water on the first moves on the excellent Ma Mola Molt, 6c+ (Can Parasit) I thought it was about time to send it – it had me beaten on every attempt.  Raul recovers a nice flash after rectifying a mistake on the last few moves, but alas, I forgot the foot sequence and I miss it.  Again.  The boys are on the nice but pumpy El Tiempo… 6c but as I sent it last year, I do the very hard 6b+, Me Río De Janeiro with Big Al.  Al mops up some 6s and then I try the old school difficult Calidoscopi, 6c – one of Xapi’s 1986 efforts.  Anyone who knows won’t be surprised when I say I’m about to send a 7a+ in Esperó that is easier than this old line.

El Tiempo Se Ha Reido De Los Que No Han Venido, 6c   Calidoscopi, 6c

Everyone decamps over to Can Pigui Pugui for a quick Cruela DeVille, 7b but I’m too tired to enjoy it, plus there’s simply not enough light left.  It’s getting dark really fast now and at 8:15pm it’s dark.  Time for a beer and Toni tells us he’s opening a new sandstone sector with about 15 lines on it.  News to come…

6c+   6b+   6c

2012-05-04 Siurana, Can Parasit   Leave a comment

I missed two 7a redpoints today, probably due to full on route-setting with Marc at Ca La Sofia in the morning to prep for BOCS 2012.  Damn my dedication!

Here’s the dimple foothold I missed on Mr. Muss, 7a which we did before El Caganer Del Ruc, 7a.

Mr. Muss, 7a

Libertarias, 7a and Ultramemia, 6c to finish an odd day of rain, sun, rain, sun, cloud and more sun.

7a   7a   7a   6c

Posted 2012/05/04 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana

2012-04-20 Siurana, Can Parásit   Leave a comment

Arriving late I find Peir, Jason, Justin, & Graham are on Rasputin, 6a & El Pupes, 7a.  I get on the 7a to learn it taking 2 falls.  I send Rasputin, 6a while waiting for Justin & Graham to redpoint and free up the 7a.  I send it on the 2nd try.  Last time I tried this with Alvaro we found it painful and difficult, but thanks to bOU-WOOd™… 

A short but sweet day, even with spots of rain.

2012-04-20 7 Can Melafots

7a   6a   7a   Photos

Posted 2012/04/21 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana

2012-04-17 Siurana, Can Parásit   Leave a comment

Jason finally made it over from Germany and we tick some super easy stuff in Parásit.  He opens Rasputín, 6a & Ateva, 6a+ without problem and we meet up with the English gang Graham, Justin & Peir on the lower routes.  I’m simply jinxed on Ma Mola Molt, 6c+ now.  I started badly, I back climbed, somehow got my sunglasses fumbled half way up, half hanging off my face, I got bitten by an ant on my right thigh, and got pumped on the last few moves.  Jason tops it and I recommend it to Justin & Graham who nicely onsight & flash.

Ma Mola Molt, 6c+

I should have redpointed the nice 7a, Libertarias but my vibe was somewhere else today.  I’ll look to the heavens for guidance…

Last climb was a clean send of Ultramemia, 6c.  My newly soled Evolvs performing great thanks to Pep.

My Evolvs

6a   6a+   6c+   7a   6c   Photos

Posted 2012/04/18 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana

2012-04-07 Siurana, Can Parásit   Leave a comment

Congratulations are in order…

it’s stopped raining!  After 5 days continuous rain, we were gagging to get out and pull down on some rock.  Paco, God bless him, was game to tick some routes in El Pati, even though it was freezing and the sun wouldn’t sneak past El Cargol for another hour or two.  I onsight the easiest line here, 6b+ Lame Chucha Baby but lower down without feeling in my fingertips.  10 minutes later they feel like they’re burning!  Fly and his Girona posse (Rosa, Oriel, Dani) are in Can Parásit so we decamp – a good call.  Sun, no breeze, less people… result!

I try the new 6c+ Montaizer Al Zaidi.  Couldn’t onsight it though, I got past the first crux OK then thin moves up to the 2nd crux.  After this easy going to the chain.  Paco calls up to me, I’m being chased by a red squirrel.  At the anchors the critter approaches, stands on my left foot with his paws on my shin, sniffs, then wonders off round an outcrop and into a crevice.  Squirrie, the cute vermin, shadows us throughout the day, quite unafraid of humans.

Squirrie

I retry the route that I can’t seem to redpoint – 6c+, Ma Mola Molt just keeps beating me.  I always get pumped at the last few moves and can’t stick it.  Grrr!

After this the new variant 7a, El Mon Se Acaba that starts with the same 5 bolts, but then veers right.  Thin climbing on not much, but half way up to clip a bolt I find Squirrie’s drey. 

To finish I open Libertarias, 7a and almost make the chains but succumb to the huge pump in my forearms.  Doable this 7a, I repeat it later but I’m too tired today to redpoint.

Libertarias, 7a   Libertarias, 7a   Libertarias, 7a

6b+   6c+   6c+   7a   7a   7a   Photos

Posted 2012/04/09 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana

2012-02-19 Siurana, Can Parasit   Leave a comment

The last visit to this super sector almost gave me my much wanted redpoint of Don Xapi’s 1986 classic Ma Mola Molt, 6c+ but you’ll remember I fell at the top crux just 3 metres from the anchor.

To gear up for this we warmed up on La Viuda Negra, 6a and then we all made short work of Ultramemia, 6c myself opening it, Siscu, then Jordi cleaning it.  Class route, all agree.

I tie in for Mola and even though I’m feeling more pumpy than I should (note to self: warm up on more easier routes…) I make it to the same place as last time though I’m not confident that my fingers and forearms will hold out till the chain.  The upper crux (bend left arm and block, feet up and looong reach for the small left hand 2 finger pocket, feet up and look for the crap right hand sidepull that can’t be easily seen, then super small crimp and up) kicks my heinie AGAIN.  Siscu lowers me down from the anchors and I’m so pumped I can’t even pull the rope through.

Ma Mola Molt, 6c+   Ma Mola Molt, 6c+   Ma Mola Molt, 6c+

Siscu (middle photo, “How d’you like them guns?”) hangs at the top too, but nice work from Jordi Primo (3rd photo) who flashes it.  Que cabrón.

After lunch we pick a fight with Mr. Muss, 7a which was stronger than all three of us.  Cool down climbs of La Marabunta, 6a+ and repeated Black Widow, 6a to end a great, if frustrating session.  I wonder if next time I’ll be able to tick Mola?

6a   6c   6c+   7a  6a+   6a   Photos

Posted 2012/02/19 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana