Archive for the ‘Can Piqui Pugui’ Category

2015-05-21 Siurana, Can Piqui Pugui   Leave a comment

Siurana is such a wonderful place to climb, with so many nice routes, so much beauty, it just had to have something ‘negative’ about it.  And that negative is having very little shade protection from the sun.  Depending when you climb, obviously, will determine what sector you want to be at if you want to avoid the sun.  And the sun is getting strong.  We warm up on Gatzarra, 6c (which is showing a bit more polish than the last time I was here) in sector L’Aparador, as the last of the midday shade gets taken by invading sunlight. 

We descend to Can Piqui Pugui which enjoys shade from early afternoon.  We wanted to get back on the once tried Gurungos, 7b but there’s a wasps’ nest half way up the route.  Shame, as I remember this as being a brilliant line.

Near it to the left, I open the nice Decidit En Petit Comitee, 7a+.  It takes the large flake and traverses left a little. 

I had also invested some time on Cruela De Vil, 7b a while back, but with the moves worked out ultimately failed to send it, but it is nice enough to redpoint, however it’s occupied just now so we try the line to the left, Harry El Brut, 7b.  It feels exposed at the start, and there’s a strenuous roof to boulder your way over.  Once over that, there’s another crux move below the anchors, but we get the beta worked out for next time.  A nice climb.

6c   7a+   7b

2013-03-02 Siurana, Can Piqui Pugui   Leave a comment

I happened upon Angelet, Maiol & Marc at the camping so we carefully descend the canal, treacherous after two days rain, to Can Piggy.  I top-rope Saiko Dase, 6b+ in order to clean the draws and put them on Gamba Gamba, 7b next to it.  Gamba’s nice but hard and after a few half-hearted attempts we pass and try Cruela Da Vil, 7b next to it (and still sharing the same anchor).  I almost had this sent last time, just falling at the crux before finishing up the ramp finish, but today I can’t even make the crux.  I’m stuck on the mini-crux just below it, before the good rest.  During this Pep turns up, later trying Chicane, 8c+.  We though have to redo Saiko to clean everything.  Not a great day, but still better than being in the office…

Posted 2013/03/05 by allend66 in Can Piqui Pugui, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-12-06 Siurana, Can Piqui Pugui   2 comments

After chilling in the camping for a while, I’m down in Piqui Pugui with a beast named Sasha.  No gentlemen… don’t start your boners -  this Sasha, though just as talented is male, Russian and fresh from his 9a crush, Junglespeed.  Amazingly, he doesn’t yet (at time of writing) have any sponsors – let’s see which smart puppies snap him up. 

We warm up on El Iogurín, 7a not bad but it’s a crack!  Then Sasha is on his project, Chicane, 8c+ which looks thin.  I have a look at a nice 7b, Gurungos which I’ll recommend Misters Johnson and Holdsworth try next time they’re over.  Nice.

7a   7b

Posted 2012/12/06 by allend66 in Can Piqui Pugui, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-01-18 Siurana, Can Piqui Pugui   Leave a comment

Having already sent Saiko Dase, 6b+ and it not being so nice that I’d like to send it a 3rd time, I warm up on the next easiest line Algo Muy Sucio, 6c+ though I fall at the crux.  Cruela Da Vil, 7b was a lot of fun last time, and I have it on my ‘to send’ list.  With the draws up, I make the crux then drop like a stone.  I retry it but still fall.  After Jack & Cristina flash it, I try it again but can’t stick the crux, though the end is perfect, going straight up on thin slopers.

Isadora, Donde Estas? 7b

I try and abandon Fent L’Indio, 7b and the super old Isadora, Donde Estas? 7b, (a solid 7b) two climbs that I won’t be trying again anytime soon.  To warm down, I send Algo Muy Sucio, 6c+ that I had left my quickdraws on.

6c+   7b   7b   7b   7b   6c+

Posted 2012/10/19 by allend66 in Can Piqui Pugui, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-10-15 Siurana, Can Pigui Pugui   Leave a comment

Saiko Dase, 6b+ to warm up then while the girls try Decidit En Petit Comité, 7a+ I opt for Cruela Da Vil, 7b.  I work the crux a few times and then the end seems a little odd, I follow chalk marks left, but it feels too far left.  On the 2nd try I fall at the crux and the last section.  It’s a nice line that deserves to be worked.

Decidit En Petit Comité, 7a+

6b+   7b   7b

Posted 2012/10/15 by allend66 in Can Piqui Pugui, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-08-10 Siurana, El Pati & Can Piqui Pugui   Leave a comment

Just time for 2 routes in morning shade, Lame Chuche Baby, 6b+ which in my opinion is difficult for the grade, and the excellent Crosta Pánic, 7a+.  With the heat, it’s up to the camping for a game of Ludo and a drink before the afternoon session in Can Piqui Pugui.  It’s so hot, but there’s no breeze here unlike Melafots that always seems to have a breeze blowing through it.  Graham’s suggestion of Delicatessen, 7a+ is very nice but I couldn’t send it with so much heat and sweat.  You chalk up for the holds and the clam just eats through the magnesium.  I top out, but I’ll return to try this when it’s a lot colder.

Delicatessen, 7a+

To the left of Delicatessen, David’s 2010 route Marvi Forever, 7a which we both found more difficult, and we told him as much!  Maybe he’ll upgrade it for the imminent release of version 2 of the definitive Siurana guide book.  Whilst I’m there, I have a look at the 2 ‘new’ routes to the left, Casa Pacos, 6c & El Boig Del Montanyó, 6b+ , both of which I found ugly, very sharp and dirty, and ones that I won’t be doing again.

6b+   7a+   7a+   7a+   6c   6b+

Posted 2012/08/12 by allend66 in Can Piqui Pugui, El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-04-25 Siurana, Can Piqui Pugui   1 comment

Bulgarian climbers Kasha, Silvia, Emilio, Roman & Svetu are today’s partners in crimp at Piqui Pugui – a super sector of medium hard and very hard climbs.  I was going to warm up on a 6c+ but Silvia recommends Saiko Dase, 6b+ Yuji’s alpine style route from the late 80’s.  Very nice, and a little polished, but that doesn’t spoil it.

Onto the 7a, Tapbioles i Pirretes next to it that Emilio has opened.  With one hard block move to get over the roof, the rest is jugs and long reaches.  I hang working out the sequence – two pockets, there’s a left drop-knee to the upper hold (which is better than the shallower but bigger bottom hold) for the left hand.  Heel hook to clip and away.  I retry it but couldn’t send though I should have.

Later I try the 6c+, Toca-Me-La Sam which we all agree is 7a.  The others are on a 7b and 8a and maybe something harder.

project, 8b?

6b+   7a   7a   6c+   Photos

Posted 2012/04/26 by allend66 in Can Piqui Pugui, Siurana