Archive for the ‘El Pati’ Category

2012-11-30 Siurana, El Pati   Leave a comment

One last climbing day for Jack & Cris and we’re in El Pati as I have to clean my draws off my project El Prado Del Rey, 7b+.  We warm up on the beautiful 35mtr Ay Mamita! 7a and then Jack sends the very first route he tried in Siurana, the new 7a+/b that kicked his backside El Corazón De La Muerte (to be fair, it wasn’t in the guidebook and he probably thought it was 6b+).  I get on Prado, working out some good beta on the lower section.  There’s the mini-roof bulge that I need to work, and then no problems up till the crux.  With my extended draw on it, making clipping it from the good lower hold, I can’t quite get past the high right hand crimp and bump.  After this steady climbing till the chain, but I decide to shelve it till I have some more 7b+ sends under my belt.

The last climb was a nice onsight and flash of the 40mtr 7a+, La Morena Del Montsant though Andoni said it wasn’t that good, but we both enjoyed it.  A good day.

7a   7b+   7a+


Posted 2012/12/02 by allend66 in El Cargol, El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-11-16 Siurana, El Cargol   Leave a comment

We wanted to get on El Prado Del Rey, 7b+ but it was occupied.  We warm up on the 40mtr 7a/+, Purgandus Populus, a nice onsight, though if it is a 7a+, then it’s a soft touch compared with others around.  Instead we chill waiting for Prado, in the end I repeat a send on one of the best 7a I’ve ever climbed, ¡Ay Mamita!

7a+   7a

Posted 2012/11/17 by allend66 in El Cargol, El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-11-14 Siurana, El Pati   Leave a comment

We warm up in El Cargol on Purgandus Populus, 6a (1st pitch only) and then as Andoni has open Ari-Zona, 6c we both send that.  Now moving over to El Pati where big Jack is working El Prado Del Rey, 7b+ – while we wait for it we zip up the nice Viagraman, 7aPrado, I would agree with Jack, is more difficult than the other 7b+ we’ve recently been on, it’s very nice but difficult.  I work it a little, Paco fighting it like a champ.  Thankfully the 4 spots of rain at around midday didn’t shorten our day, I even worked the 7b+ shirtless.  I love Spain.

6a   6c   7a   7b+

Posted 2012/11/15 by allend66 in El Cargol, El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-10-24 Siurana, El Pati, Est   Leave a comment

Eagle-eyed Jack thought he was warming up on Viagraman, 7a but it’s Mucho Tronco, Poca Madera, 7c next to it, and to be honest, I’ve made the same mistake as these routes here in El Pati don’t go straight up, some go up and to the right.  So there goes our plan to work El Prada Del Rey, 7b+

Tronco though is a beautiful route.  The fun starts at the 4th and doesn’t relent till the 6th bolt.  There appears to be a left, middle and right way up it, but it needs to be worked a little.  After trying it, I try the new 7a+, El Corazón De La Muerte left of the 6b+, and it’s nice.  The sun’s on the rock now and it’s hot, so we shelve Tronco for today and head for shade in Siuranella Est.

Gravetat Marciana, 6c

I choose to do the 40mtr epic Gravetat Marciana, 6c and it looks nice, the same aspect as, though with none of the chalk of Lo Deje To Blanco, 7a.  Climbing starts on rusty bullet-holes.  The brown pockets certainly provide an accurate name – very ‘red planet’.  After clipping the high 1st bolt, I can’t relax into the climb though.  The combination of it being run-out (14 bolts, 40mtrs), it going up diagonally on a slight ramp, so a fall being potentially scrapey, the resulting rope-drag, the unreliable and fragile rock… I didn’t enjoy this at all, and doubt I’ll ever repeat it.  Thomas & Ho agree – it looks good but isn’t.

7c   7a+   6c

Posted 2012/10/25 by allend66 in El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Est

2012-10-16 Siurana, El Pati, Siuranella Est   Leave a comment

Without a warm-up and straight onto Gato Lerdo, 7b+, I’m taking it easy till the crux roof-crack.  I leave it here, watch Yonass send Zona 0, 8b that shares the same start, forking right just after this roof crack problem.  I give it another try but still leave the crux not wanting to force anything.  After this we’re over to Siuranella Est and Yonass works then sends Ramadán, 8b.  Taking advantage of the toprope, I make the 4th clip, twice, but 8b is too rich for me at the moment.  Two warm-down sends, Lo Deje To Blanco, 7a & Atracción Feacal, 6c finish a short but interesting day.

Zona 0, 8b   Ramadan, 8b

7b+   7b+   8b   7a   6c

Posted 2012/10/17 by allend66 in El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Est

2012-10-10 Siurana, El Pati   Leave a comment

Warming up in El Cargol I try Llepet Nicotínic, 6c+ but get a good pasting.  When full-on winter comes, this south-facing side has a couple of 6c+ and 7a+ which I’d like to bag.  Over to El Pati and shade and it’s like walking into an air-conditioned room.  With Viagraman, 7a open, I have a try and work out the beta on two places, then send it on the second try – at last!  Over in Négociée, we hear the sweet sound of drilling – Mr Andrada’s putting up a new line seemingly to the left of Négociée, 8b.

2012-10-10 1 Negociee   2012-10-10 2 Negociee

We’re now over in Siuranella Est just to get some mileage in.  I fluff a previous onsight of La Negra Tiene Tumbao, 6b+ but recover face with a nice send of La Fiesta De Mondongo, 7a.  I was looking forward to playing on L’Escamarlá, 7c+ but it will have to wait…

6c+   7a  7a   6b+   7a

2012-08-10 Siurana, El Pati & Can Piqui Pugui   Leave a comment

Just time for 2 routes in morning shade, Lame Chuche Baby, 6b+ which in my opinion is difficult for the grade, and the excellent Crosta Pánic, 7a+.  With the heat, it’s up to the camping for a game of Ludo and a drink before the afternoon session in Can Piqui Pugui.  It’s so hot, but there’s no breeze here unlike Melafots that always seems to have a breeze blowing through it.  Graham’s suggestion of Delicatessen, 7a+ is very nice but I couldn’t send it with so much heat and sweat.  You chalk up for the holds and the clam just eats through the magnesium.  I top out, but I’ll return to try this when it’s a lot colder.

Delicatessen, 7a+

To the left of Delicatessen, David’s 2010 route Marvi Forever, 7a which we both found more difficult, and we told him as much!  Maybe he’ll upgrade it for the imminent release of version 2 of the definitive Siurana guide book.  Whilst I’m there, I have a look at the 2 ‘new’ routes to the left, Casa Pacos, 6c & El Boig Del Montanyó, 6b+ , both of which I found ugly, very sharp and dirty, and ones that I won’t be doing again.

6b+   7a+   7a+   7a+   6c   6b+

Posted 2012/08/12 by allend66 in Can Piqui Pugui, El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana