Archive for the ‘Espero Primavera’ Category

2013-03-07 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

After two days of rain, the walls in Siurana have the odd wet patch but overall it’s dry and clean.  I try and send my project Papágora, 7b+ but I’ve lost form since Christmas when I had it ready to send.  Not bothering with another try, I try out the next line Mandrágora, 7b+ to the right.  After a tricky start, the crux comes at you at the 4th-5th bolt.  There’s no feet and the hand holds are thin.  After this, it’s relatively simple, but it’s pumpy – you just need to remember where the good jugs are to recover.  A brilliant line.

Mandragora, 7b+

An odd day today, one minute sunny, one minute cloudy and the odd drop of rain falling, though not on the routes.  They seem to remain fairly dry.

7b+   7b+

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Posted 2013/03/08 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2013-02-27 Siurana, Espero Primavera   Leave a comment

With Papágora, 7b+ on my mind, I show Esperó Primavera to the boys from Madrid.  It’s difficult trying to combo easy routes and more difficult routes, but Esperó is a nice sector (if a little polished) and while Lorenzo & Manu do Primera Linea, 6a Sergio & I do Records Oblidats, 6b.  Sergio onsights the mighty Remena Nena, 7a but I pass, it’s very nice but I have it and I’m saving my strength for my project.  And so we’re onto it.

Papagora, 7b+

Sergio gets to the crux ok but misses the onsight.  I miss the send as well, annoyingly I should have had this months ago, though it’s not so annoying as it’s simply a brilliant route and a pleasure to repeat it.

Later I open Primavera, 5+ for Manu and realise I didn’t take draws up with me so miss the last 4 bolts.  Never have I climbed so carefully!

6b   7b+   5+

Posted 2013/02/28 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2013-01-30 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

11 weeks ago I had the brilliant Papágora, 7b+ ready to send, but with rain, overcrowding, illness and various other circumstances it was shelved.  So it was with gusto to return to it today with Claudio.  I forego a warm up, remembering the rests on the classic and get straight to work.  But some of the details were forgotten and I’m relearning the high right foot – long move at the 7th bolt.  I also have to polish the little crimpy section just below the crux.  Just below the chain too was the right hand side pull that needs to be taken with the feet as high as possible.

A second try is fluffed at the double under-cling, but it’s all good mileage.  Claudio hangs a few times on it, but is impressed.  I love this route, it’s quality.

Papagora, 7b+

A warm down on Marieta De L’Ull Viu, 6a+ to finish, next time we’ll warm up on this then get on Papágora.

7b+   7b+   6a+

Posted 2013/01/31 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-11-12 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

I throw the draws up on Papágora, 7b+ for my warm up, taking it easy a couple of bolts then a rest at a time.  The beta to clip the crux bolt is different if the draw is in, so I A0 it – clip my long sling pulling from the draw below, lower down to the rest before the crux, then do the whole sequence first time.  After the crux, a hands-free rest then 6b+ to the chain.

Papagora, 7b+   Papagora, 7b+

With both Graham and Justin trying it, to keep warm I do Marieta De L’Ull Viu, 6a+ with Mike, then a short rest and I’m back on my redpoint attempt on Papágora.  With all the beta worked out, I get to the crux OK then take a couple of minutes to try and depump.  I’m nearly through the crux, just one more move to get the right foot up high but my left hand just will not stay closed on the crimp above the bolt.  I’ll have this beautiful line next time.  Probably.

7b+   6a+   7b+

Posted 2012/11/12 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-11-11 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

Cold and grey, I had little desire to climb today but I met Paco up at Esperó.  We did Tant S’En Fot, 6b and then Remena Nena, 7a though it started to rain after Paco came down so we waited it out a little.  After 40 minutes, it just about stopped and I roped in to clean the draws, not expecting a send.  The start was scary, I relaxed a little after clipping the 3rd (the second letting you deck-out on the top of the column from the corner start).  Taking Paco’s great beta, I followed the direct path, – since sending this with Dan, Ken & Tom way back, I had always moved right taking the crux crack as a layback, but the hidden high crimp directly up is much better.  I topped out on wet ledges and crimps and we packed in for the day.

6b   7a

Posted 2012/11/12 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-11-07 Siurana, Esperó Primavera   1 comment

Marieta De L’Ull Viu, 6a+ to start the day and then we try a new 6c+ on the end of the wall, just next to El CargolAri-Zona was strange but nice, if a little short.  There was plenty of rock above this, I don’t know why it was stopped at only 18mtrs.  In fact the other new line 3mtrs to the right, Welcome To The Team, 7b weighs in at 40mtrs.

Ari-Zona, 6c+

Jens wanted to retry Llet De Boja, 7a+ which he fell on, and as I have it past its send by date, I open it.  Thankfully, I do everything perfectly, though at the top I’m breathing very heavily.  I finally send it, though it should have been ticked with Jack days ago.

While everyone else goes to El Pati to do their 7b+, 7c and 7c+ projects, PJ & I get on Noia Nom, 7c (to be downgraded to 7b+).  It’s nice… the crux coming at the 3rd, 4th and finishing at the 5th bolt.  Then it’s a combo of 6a, 6b and 6c moves to the anchor, though it feels exposed with the long run-outs between bolts.  Great adhesion on the rock, it was put up by Carles Brascó in 1995, seemingly with not many repetitions, by the lack of chalk on it.

Noia Nom, 7c

6a+   6c+   7a+   7c/b+

Posted 2012/11/07 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-11-06 Siurana, Est & Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

We arrived in Siuranella Est to find Jack at the foot of Lua, 7c with eyes wide and a doubtful look on his face.  Meanwhile we warm up on La Discordia, 6b then repeat it twice to get some good mileage in (and in Ivan’s case, some good airtime in as well!).  When the sun went, we changed over to Esperó PrimaveraJack now with Cris, having shelved Lua, are on Noia Nom, 7b+ (downgraded from 7c), though I’m not going to touch it today – maybe tomorrow.  Instead I try and send my overdue 7a+, Llet De Boja but mess up before the crux, annoyingly doing the crux perfectly.  After a rest I blow it again, simply out of gas.

6b   6b   6b   7a+   7a+