Archive for the ‘L’Aparador’ Category

2015-05-21 Siurana, Can Piqui Pugui   Leave a comment

Siurana is such a wonderful place to climb, with so many nice routes, so much beauty, it just had to have something ‘negative’ about it.  And that negative is having very little shade protection from the sun.  Depending when you climb, obviously, will determine what sector you want to be at if you want to avoid the sun.  And the sun is getting strong.  We warm up on Gatzarra, 6c (which is showing a bit more polish than the last time I was here) in sector L’Aparador, as the last of the midday shade gets taken by invading sunlight. 

We descend to Can Piqui Pugui which enjoys shade from early afternoon.  We wanted to get back on the once tried Gurungos, 7b but there’s a wasps’ nest half way up the route.  Shame, as I remember this as being a brilliant line.

Near it to the left, I open the nice Decidit En Petit Comitee, 7a+.  It takes the large flake and traverses left a little. 

I had also invested some time on Cruela De Vil, 7b a while back, but with the moves worked out ultimately failed to send it, but it is nice enough to redpoint, however it’s occupied just now so we try the line to the left, Harry El Brut, 7b.  It feels exposed at the start, and there’s a strenuous roof to boulder your way over.  Once over that, there’s another crux move below the anchors, but we get the beta worked out for next time.  A nice climb.

6c   7a+   7b

2014-06-01 L’Aparador & Can Simiro   Leave a comment

It’s been a couple of years now since I last did Sorry Not Clean, 6b in the shady sector, but wow, the crux move half way up is now like marble!  It’s getting polished, but that is inevitable as there’s little to warm up on here.  Pantxi’s new-ish route El Hombre Con Cara De Seta, 6c is an odd line.  there’s a thin move half way then a ramp, then the last vertical bit.  I miss the flash with a silly mistake just below the anchor, but a sillier mistake was to try and clean the route off a lead – it should be cleaned on a toprope.

Anyway, we just have enough time to flash the nice Gatzara, 6c which is also getting buffed to a high shine, before Paco has to go and I meet up with Jake and his crew at Arbolí’s Can Simiro Derecha.

Anthony is working a nice looking 7b, Els Impresentables so I have a look at it.  Boulder start, but it gets nice after that, till the overhanging crux on sharp, thin crimps.  To cool down, I do Esperó, 6b+ which I think I have only sent once in god knows how many tries.  It’s hard (for a 6b+) and getting polished too.

2014-06-01 6 Can Simiro

6b   6c   6c   7b   6b+

2012-10-03 Siurana, L’Aparador   Leave a comment

We’re in the last days of looking for shade now.  Yesterday in Toni Gros, it was very hot with the sun, the temperature being perfect for the first half hour when shade hit the crag, then the temperature steadily dropped and we were putting on jackets and hats.  Today in Aparador we have shade and it’s cool.  Warm up on CAB, 6a and then onto Solos A Solas, 7c.  I don’t fall at any point – I now know the moves needed, but I just need to get more strength and stamina to avoid having to rest.

After this I wanted to try the 7b extension to Rauxa, but as I fell at the previously red-pointed  7a+ crux, I decided to save it for a possible onsight another day.

6a   7c   7a

Posted 2012/10/04 by allend66 in L'Aparador, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-09-01 Siurana, Siuranella Est   Leave a comment

Half day today, but even half a day climbing is better than nowt.  We’re over in Siuranella Est since the route we wanted to do, Rauxa, 7a+, 7b over in L’Aparador was occupied.  It’s now some 20 degrees Celsius colder in the last 3 days since it rained and with the gauge showing 17 degrees, temperature rotpunkt, I send the nice Lo Dejé To Blanco, 7a to warm up.  As I lower down my fingers are cold on the outside, warm on the inside.  After this I should have onsighted the easier (?) Junta Culeta, 6c+ but miss-read it and fell.  The top section’s thin too.  A nice climb which I’ll send next time.

Rauxa, 7a+   Junta Culeta, 6c+   Junta Culeta, 6c+

7a   6c+

2012-08-23 Siurana, L’Aparador. Altafulla Psicobloc   Leave a comment

It’s been a long time, or feels like it since I’ve been up to my ‘home crag’, the very wonderful Siurana.  With the Generalitat having restricted access plus the unrelenting heat, I feel a little off form, even with bOU-WOOd mounted at home, so while Maka works his project, Xerinola, 7b+, I’m giving a couple of ascents on my project, the grand Solos A Solas, 7c.  I’m struggling – the last time I tried this I felt better on it, but not a problem as I’m still working it.  The photo below demonstrates accurately the overhang.

Solos A Solas, 7c

After eating lunch, we’re off to Altafulla to Psicobloc.  I onsight a 6a+, 6b+, and 6c.

2012-08-23 06 Altafulla

7c   7c   6a+   6b+   6c

Posted 2012/08/23 by allend66 in L'Aparador, Psicobloc, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2012-08-09 Siurana, L’Aparador, Siuranella Est   Leave a comment

CAB, 6a to warm up and then I’m straight onto check progress on the nice Solos a Solas, 7c.  Not going full on as the 18mtr CAB isn’t much of a warmer, I make the first 3 bolts then rest.  The 1st crux could do with a extender to get through the vertical crack, but if you do it right, you get past and clip safely – it’s just a little run out.  I’d forgot the sequence here, and fall once, & rest once, then I’m past up to the 2nd crux, which I nail first time.  This too is very run out, the hardest move is already some 3mtrs above the last draw, and the crux being very reachy to a thin hold.  One more rest at the last bolt by the lower-off, and I’m happy.  The only other time I tried this, I was testing Pantxi’s belaying & patience with several long falls.  I’ll come back to this great line in about one month, and see if I can send it.

After this, to relax a little, I open Gatzara, 6c in the last of the shade.

Lo Mes Negre, 7a

Over in Siuranella Est, I try the not very nice Lo Més Negre, 7a+ (7a in the guide), mopping up the routes I don’t have, but this I won’t repeat.  Chema onsights Lo Dejé To Blanco, 7a which as I have, and as I’m very thin on skin on my fingers, I pass on.  It’s very hot in Siurana.

6a   7c   6c   7a+

2012-08-04 Siurana, L’Aparador & Cal Orro   1 comment

Morning shade before it gets too hot in L’Aparador.  We warm up on CAB, 6a and then onto Disbauxa, 7b.  What a beautiful line this is.  It’s a little pumpy, and the change out right when it leaves Rauxa, 7a+ is a bit of a move, but then you’re on reasonable crimps with occasional jugs, all overhanging, a little polished but all good.  I didn’t send it today, but it’s on my hitlist.

Disbauxa, 7b   Sac D'Excusas, 6c

Over to the left we do Tali’s 2011 line Beso De Cabra, 7a.  A tricky sequence of moves with crap feet and you’re through it, but this line isn’t so nice.

It’s 37º when we get to the car, so we’re up top on the other side of the valley for more shade, today in Ca L’Orro.  Some more new routes to be added, but we tried to do Transgenicstop, 7a but we find out later that we did Sac D’Excusas, 6c – very nice.  To finish, I planned on doing the 6c, instead I’m on the unknown Calé which luckily wasn’t too difficult… there’s one long move to get past the bulge roof.  I would guess 6c, but am tired and couldn’t onsight it.  Another day it would have been ticked.

6a   7b   7a   6c   6c

Posted 2012/08/04 by allend66 in Ca L'Oro, L'Aparador, Rockclimbing, Siurana