Archive for the ‘Siuranella Central’ Category

2013-02-26 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

Madrileños Sergio, Manu & Lorenzo are with me in a rather crowded Central, it’s cold, it had snowed but all the routes are of course dry and nice.  It’s nearly always breezy too on this exposed corner of rock, but with the sun people still climb shirtless.  In La Berruga, we do Filiprim, 6a+ & Gruyére, 6b two very nice climbs, then we head up to the main sector.  While Lorenz & Manu are ticking both 6a, Sergio onsights the short but powerful Si Vas Nikel Fas Tard, 7a+ but I can’t send it.  After this we try the recommended La Refinería, 7b+ and it is a beauty.  It’s difficult from the 3rd till the 7th bolt, eases off till the last 2 bolts on the vertical slab, and then tweaks again.  There’s also some very loose chunks of rock that have chalk Xs on them – I think it would be better if someone got rid of them – they would definitely kill someone.

La Refineria, 7b+

A nice project this one, but needs a lot of work.  To finish I open El Mareao, 6a for Manu to retry.

6a+   6b   7a+   7b+   6a

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Posted 2013/02/26 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Central

2013-01-04 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

After one week off due to a particularly virulent flu strain that would have hospitalised most, we’re today enjoying sun in Siuranella, though Xavier and myself are definitely off our game.  We warm up on the really nice 35mtr 6a, Arrós De Llamantol alpine in style but a treat.  There’s a new 7a, Agropunk around 22mtrs till an intermediate lower-off, then it bumps up to 8b.  It’s left of Traficans De Ferralla, 7c+.  First try hang at the crux then I give it a second go but can’t send a simple 7a.  I’ll come back and tick it when I have a bit more form back.  We’ve also got two 7b+ in our sights, and there’s plenty other stuff in this great sector.

Agropunk, 7a

To finish I do Mala Rampampinfla, 6a+ and Festa Major De 78, 6a.

6a   7a   7a   6a+   6a

Posted 2013/01/04 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Central

2012-11-24 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

While Cristian does La Discordia, 6b I do Gruyére, a superb 6b and then I try Cavall De Foc, 7a+ though the same as the last time I tried it, I couldn’t do the long block move up the overhang.  Before the overhang and after it’s easy so the 7a+ grade is in 4 moves.  Cristian seems to do it OK though.  And continuing his quest to send his first 7a, we return to Siuranella Est where there are 3 nice contenders.  Brigadistak is nice but a little tecnical and though there’s time for another, we finish up for the day.

6b   7a+   7a+   7a

2012-09-21 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

It’s been a while since I climbed in this excellent sector, Paco & I arrive late, Chema & Ramon already on slackin’ out duties, sunbathing when we unload.  We warm up on the nice 6a, El Mareao and then onto Tikis Mikis, 7a.  Ramon flashed it, the rest of us fell at the crux.  It’s certainly doable, but with so many other 7a and 7a+ in this sector, I won’t put it high on my priority list, even though it’s nice.

Si Vas Niquel, Fas Tard, 7a+   2012-09-21 10 Siuranella Central

I have a look at the excellent Si Vas Niquel, Fas Tard, 7a+ short and powerful, this is doable with a little work.  I fall at the hold above the crux, then finish it up clean, This one I will send next time I’m here.

6a   7a   7a+

Posted 2012/09/22 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Central

2012-03-03 Siurana, Siuranella Est/Centre   Leave a comment

Resisting the pull to debut my new Montsant guide, we head up to Siuranella, but it’s crowded.  We warm up on Gruyére, 6b a real delight.  With Cavall De Foc, 7a+ open, I sniff round it but we abandon it at the 3rd clip.  Moving round to Siuranella Est, we both nail the alpine style La Marca Del Sorru, 6b+ which felt exposed, as it is always windy on this corner. 

La Marca Del Sorru, 6b+

Looking over at El Pati, more talent’s in the house – evident from the photographer jumared up one of the static lines waiting for his subject.  The French have been doing the rounds lately but as it happens they’re Americans, Sasha here on Kale Barroka, 8b+:

Kale Barroka, 8b+

Our next climb is L’Angelet, 6c which I jinxed for myself.  Kudos to Fly for opening it, in my opinion much harder than the other 6c’s I have, onsighted or otherwise.  Here we head back up to Centre for 2 quick routes, El Mareao, 6a & La Romanof, 6b+ before folding.

6b   7a+  6b+   6c   6a   6b+   Photos

2011-11-20 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

Curses!  Approaching the parking we saw a large group of climbers taking our ascent path, grrrr!  By the time we made the steep approach, the two easiest routes were occupied.  Dutch it turned out, and reasonably friendly.  There were also 2 more bods queueing for the 6a’s so I rope up for 6a+ Mala Rampampinfla, a previous onsight.  Nice and fingery lower down, then juggy over the bulge, it’s a nice 6a+ that gets the blood flowing.  Needed it too, because the wind, as nearly always, was blowing on this exposed corner.  It was cloudy too and a little cold.

Onto steeper territory, the 6c Malfario looks nice (it is!) and inviting (as well!) so I shimmy up the 6b approach it shares before veering left.  Staying climbing up the 6b while clipping the 6c twice, here it splits away definitively onto steep and almost nice semi-jugs.  Footwork needs to be up to scratch, and I ignore a chalked undercut flake to the left – good call, on later inspection it turned out to be a bluff, chalked up by some old wag to sucker punch noobs!  I clip then hang alternately resting each arm after the first sequence of moves, before the next harder sequence.  A vertical crack being the next couple of hand destinations, I power up it.  With hands now crossed over on a horizontal ledge after the crack, and wanting a foothold in the empty space to my lower left, the weight’s too much and I’m off.  I’m a little peeved about not onsighting this – I missed a bomber foot ‘nub’ for my left which frankly was higher than I had looked.  After this, a very shallow vertical sloper to get onto a couple more good crimps, then ramping out to a few pockets and the chain.  This will be redpointed on next visit, but for now, it’s the daddy.  On being lowered down, I see I’m bleeding from a rope burn re burnt.

Mat bails on the 6c, instead opting for one of the 6a’s that we were going to warm up on, Festa Major Del 78 (first pitch).  A few spots of rain fall and he cleans it and we hide under the overhanging wall for a while.  When it looks dry, I start up the superb El Mariao, 6a only to get three quarters up it before the rain returns, heavier now.  I top out and when I touch ground I’m wet, and there’s puddles of rainwater on the rope tarp.  Leaving the rope in place we return for shelter.  Eventually, a Dutch dude uses my rope to clean mine and his route next to it.  Unfortunately, the rain has made me very cold and it’s time to prematurely head back to the car, and ultimately a hot shower at home.

2011-11-20 14 Siuranella Central

6a+   6c   6a   Photos

Posted 2011/11/25 by allend66 in Siurana, Siuranella Central

2011-10-15 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

A new sector for us both, Bourici said he’d scoped the sector out before but never climbed here.  I lead all 7 routes and put 7 onsights in my pocket – Thanks bou!  We warmed up on Festa Major Del 78, 6a incredibly dating from 1978 but quality stands the test of time.  It was not noticeably polished – amazing.

To its right, El Mareao, 6a a little harder with an overhang to negotiate.  Tweaking it a little, but conscious of Bou’s recovering shoulder wound, I knock out the first pitch of La Siuranella, 6b.  The other 2 pitches are doable – Mr Chinner, take note.  The surprise is up top, and more like a 6b+ but not uncomfortable.  I mop up the very technical and superb La Romanof, 6b+Bou tops it and his shoulder seems to be OK, giving him a bit of jip but nothing serious, though he’s now done climbing for today.

I nail Mala Rampampinfla, 6a+ (more quality) and that’s us done for this top section, there’s a couple of routes below at La Berruga.  Chaining 28 meter routes without belaying tires one quicker, and I get on the 6a+ Filiprim, debuting my new Beta Stick bought a couple of hours earlier at Goma II.  (After the horrendously high 1st bolt at Fantasía Rosa, 6c at Diedres Del Mig the other day, I thought it prudent to treat myself.)

The next climb was the excellent Gruyére, 6b.  28mts and with a long overhang, though with more or less good holds (it is a 6b after all), the middle section got a little thin at one point.  “Aguántalo!Bou shouts up as I fumble the crux but recover my right foot, having to join hands on the thin crimp to reach up to a crap right hand hold.  There’s no feet, and I had to cross my arms to make the other crap hand hold to the right with my left, from then on autopilot up to the chain.  Very nice indeed…

La Siuranella, 6b, 5+, 6a

6a   6a   6b   6b+   6a+   6a+   6b   Photos

Posted 2011/10/15 by allend66 in Siurana, Siuranella Central