Archive for the ‘Siuranella Est’ Category

2012-11-24 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

While Cristian does La Discordia, 6b I do Gruyére, a superb 6b and then I try Cavall De Foc, 7a+ though the same as the last time I tried it, I couldn’t do the long block move up the overhang.  Before the overhang and after it’s easy so the 7a+ grade is in 4 moves.  Cristian seems to do it OK though.  And continuing his quest to send his first 7a, we return to Siuranella Est where there are 3 nice contenders.  Brigadistak is nice but a little tecnical and though there’s time for another, we finish up for the day.

6b   7a+   7a+   7a

Advertisements

2012-11-23 Siurana, Siuranella Est   Leave a comment

After 2 days rest I’m back climbing ‘easy’ stuff after the finger mishap in Raco De Misa.  I’ve got it taped up which helps a lot.  I do Mucho Papito, 6b (with a rest) and then send Junta Culeta, 6c+ now knowing how the finger is.  Rapha misses the send, though we next do Borderline, 6c and I onsight this nice little romp and he flashes.  Now Álvaro looks at L’Escamarlá, 7c+ (8a with lower start).  As this is held by many to be the best 7c+ in Siurana, I have it on my to do list, but today is not the day.  We finish the day on Atracción Fecal, 6c.

6b   6c+   6c   6c

Posted 2012/11/24 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Est

2012-11-06 Siurana, Est & Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

We arrived in Siuranella Est to find Jack at the foot of Lua, 7c with eyes wide and a doubtful look on his face.  Meanwhile we warm up on La Discordia, 6b then repeat it twice to get some good mileage in (and in Ivan’s case, some good airtime in as well!).  When the sun went, we changed over to Esperó PrimaveraJack now with Cris, having shelved Lua, are on Noia Nom, 7b+ (downgraded from 7c), though I’m not going to touch it today – maybe tomorrow.  Instead I try and send my overdue 7a+, Llet De Boja but mess up before the crux, annoyingly doing the crux perfectly.  After a rest I blow it again, simply out of gas.

6b   6b   6b   7a+   7a+

2012-10-24 Siurana, El Pati, Est   Leave a comment

Eagle-eyed Jack thought he was warming up on Viagraman, 7a but it’s Mucho Tronco, Poca Madera, 7c next to it, and to be honest, I’ve made the same mistake as these routes here in El Pati don’t go straight up, some go up and to the right.  So there goes our plan to work El Prada Del Rey, 7b+

Tronco though is a beautiful route.  The fun starts at the 4th and doesn’t relent till the 6th bolt.  There appears to be a left, middle and right way up it, but it needs to be worked a little.  After trying it, I try the new 7a+, El Corazón De La Muerte left of the 6b+, and it’s nice.  The sun’s on the rock now and it’s hot, so we shelve Tronco for today and head for shade in Siuranella Est.

Gravetat Marciana, 6c

I choose to do the 40mtr epic Gravetat Marciana, 6c and it looks nice, the same aspect as, though with none of the chalk of Lo Deje To Blanco, 7a.  Climbing starts on rusty bullet-holes.  The brown pockets certainly provide an accurate name – very ‘red planet’.  After clipping the high 1st bolt, I can’t relax into the climb though.  The combination of it being run-out (14 bolts, 40mtrs), it going up diagonally on a slight ramp, so a fall being potentially scrapey, the resulting rope-drag, the unreliable and fragile rock… I didn’t enjoy this at all, and doubt I’ll ever repeat it.  Thomas & Ho agree – it looks good but isn’t.

7c   7a+   6c

Posted 2012/10/25 by allend66 in El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Est

2012-10-16 Siurana, El Pati, Siuranella Est   Leave a comment

Without a warm-up and straight onto Gato Lerdo, 7b+, I’m taking it easy till the crux roof-crack.  I leave it here, watch Yonass send Zona 0, 8b that shares the same start, forking right just after this roof crack problem.  I give it another try but still leave the crux not wanting to force anything.  After this we’re over to Siuranella Est and Yonass works then sends Ramadán, 8b.  Taking advantage of the toprope, I make the 4th clip, twice, but 8b is too rich for me at the moment.  Two warm-down sends, Lo Deje To Blanco, 7a & Atracción Feacal, 6c finish a short but interesting day.

Zona 0, 8b   Ramadan, 8b

7b+   7b+   8b   7a   6c

Posted 2012/10/17 by allend66 in El Pati, Rockclimbing, Siurana, Siuranella Est

2012-10-10 Siurana, El Pati   Leave a comment

Warming up in El Cargol I try Llepet Nicotínic, 6c+ but get a good pasting.  When full-on winter comes, this south-facing side has a couple of 6c+ and 7a+ which I’d like to bag.  Over to El Pati and shade and it’s like walking into an air-conditioned room.  With Viagraman, 7a open, I have a try and work out the beta on two places, then send it on the second try – at last!  Over in Négociée, we hear the sweet sound of drilling – Mr Andrada’s putting up a new line seemingly to the left of Négociée, 8b.

2012-10-10 1 Negociee   2012-10-10 2 Negociee

We’re now over in Siuranella Est just to get some mileage in.  I fluff a previous onsight of La Negra Tiene Tumbao, 6b+ but recover face with a nice send of La Fiesta De Mondongo, 7a.  I was looking forward to playing on L’Escamarlá, 7c+ but it will have to wait…

6c+   7a  7a   6b+   7a

2012-09-01 Siurana, Siuranella Est   Leave a comment

Half day today, but even half a day climbing is better than nowt.  We’re over in Siuranella Est since the route we wanted to do, Rauxa, 7a+, 7b over in L’Aparador was occupied.  It’s now some 20 degrees Celsius colder in the last 3 days since it rained and with the gauge showing 17 degrees, temperature rotpunkt, I send the nice Lo Dejé To Blanco, 7a to warm up.  As I lower down my fingers are cold on the outside, warm on the inside.  After this I should have onsighted the easier (?) Junta Culeta, 6c+ but miss-read it and fell.  The top section’s thin too.  A nice climb which I’ll send next time.

Rauxa, 7a+   Junta Culeta, 6c+   Junta Culeta, 6c+

7a   6c+