2016-10-12 Greece, Kalymnos, Poets   Leave a comment

That time of year again, some welcome winter sun is needed and so we find ourselves looking out at the Aegean sea on a firm favourite – Kalymnos.  It’s just after the North Face Festival, so the island seems to be a little busier than last year.  Poets is a sector very close to Masouri, so we leave the hogs and walk.  A day of easy stuff, as we haven’t climbed for ages, and it’s a new crag.  So we start things off with the very nice Anacreonta, 6a.  Again, as we discussed in last year’s post, the guide book literally stars every route, so a little viewer discretion is required to counteract the lack of decent guidebook editorial staff.

Next up is Sapfo, 6a+, along with Styx, 6a+ and Dreads, 6b.  All fairly good climbs, with Dreads standing out as being a corker.  There’s thin climbing on that broccoli-type mineral growth rock from seepage from the huge overhanging roof, so it’s sharp on the fingers, but ultra grippy.  The rock shoes are like velcro.

Homeric Verses, 6a+

Homeric Verses, 6a+ and Saxonia, 6a are also nice, and even though the rest of the gang want to bail from the sun, I fit in a quick Damocles, 6a+.  Nice sector, not a bad climb done.

6a   6a+   6a+   6b   6a+   6a   6a+

Posted 2016/11/03 by allend66 in Kalymnos, Poets, Rockclimbing

2016-10-04 Llanymynech, Grid Iron   Leave a comment

Bah Bah Black Sheep, 6b+ and Gaza Stripper, 6b serve as warmers before I try to get past the damn overlap on Pew, 7a+.  A work in progress….

6b+   6b   7a+   7a+

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-09-19 Llanymynech, Grid Iron Wall   Leave a comment

Back to the old favourite, and one of the closer crags to home.  I still have plenty of work to do here, and buoyed by recent crushage on Poison Ivy, 7a+ on the Red Wall, I try and tick the remaining two hard routes left on Grid Iron.

After a quick warm up on Smack The Juggler, 6b+, I’m ready for my project.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+ (hence forth known as Pew) recently had a bit of escape tat hanging off it at what was presumably the crux, just before the overlap.  Sportsclimbs also tells us the crux is pulling through this overlap, so no surprise there.  We get on it.  The lower section is rather scrappy but requires some delicate and careful climbing, and isn’t too offensive.  Sure the rock isn’t super quality, but the movements needed to ascend are rather nice.  Then the pale coloured mid-section jumps up you and there are some stiff moves needed.  I work out a first hard move to reach the pocket (not hard when you know how!) under the roof, then progress is stopped.  I try and traverse over to the right – not a great hold.  I try straight up through a minging sloper – not good.  The good rescue hold is just too far away.  I work it for a while, but am left flummoxed as I strip it for another day.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+

With still some energy left, (though not enough for Pew), I get on Curfew, 6b+ which is always nice, and quickly round off the day with another send of Jack The Smuggler, 6c+ / 7a.

6b+   7a+   7a+  6b+   7a

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-09-12 Wales, Fedw Fawr   Leave a comment

Over on the Island of Anglesey, we planned on doing a bit on a couple of crags, but the weather wasn’t good.  Very strong gusts and sea spray meant this part of Wales was just not going to happen today, so plan B – we drive down to a little spot called Fedw Fawr, White Beach Crag.

We only have time for 3 routes.   Bunty, 6a+, Tricky Fruitbat, 6a+, and the world’s hardest 6b, Mike’s Glory.  Not a bad crag, but as it’s limited in the amount of lines there are, I doubt we’ll be back here again.  It was however a nice retreat when most other places were with bad weather conditions.

2016-09-12 08 White Beach Crag

6a+   6a+   6b

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Rockclimbing

2016-09-07 Llanymynech, Red Wall   Leave a comment

As the newest member of our 7a+ onsight/flash club remarked yesterday, “[even though it has several climbs in the Clwyd Top-50 list, the Red Wall] doesn’t look very inspiring…”, And I’ve got to hand it to him.  It has the look of a very quarried, very man-made looking wall, with lots of unnatural angles, and plenty of dust & grime.  And the potential for taking a fall, and landing onto a nasty out-jutting bit of rock doesn’t really inspire confidence.  I do however plan to have a look at all the climbs on the aptly named Red Wall, and we continue today with the other easiest climb, Clematis, 6b+ in the corner. 

Clematis, 6b+

A sustained climb and intriguing warm up, I use it to lower down and clean off all the holds on the next route, the nice looking Poison Ivy, 7a+ on the short end wall.  I missed the onsight of this particular 7a+ a couple of days ago and wanted to get back on it.  Meanwhile, Marc smashes it, and the sun comes onto it for around 1 hour and then it’s back in shade.  I pulled off a couple of holds on this last time, but I manage to clip the anchors, a very long 35mtrs away without much drama. 

Poison Ivy, 7a+   Poison Ivy, 7a+

A super route, but it isn’t 7a as stated on sportsclimbs.  A recommended tick to anyone working 7a+.  Not so good if you’re new to 7a.

To finish the day, we cruise up A Night Torchlight Parade, 6c well, some of us do…

6b+   7a+   6c

Posted 2016/09/08 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-08-29 Wales, Llanymynech, Red Wall   Leave a comment

Red Wall, the dark, dusty very ‘quarried’ looking wall below the golf club is full of lines on the still-to-do list.  It also has a few of the Top-50 routes for Clwyd.  After warming up on 39 And Counting, 6a on the Grid Iron, we nip over to Red Wall and welcome shade.  Another warmer on Day Of The Triffids, 6b+ and I start on Poison Ivy, 7a.  Given 7a on Gary’s website, but after trying it, I would agree with the 7a+ grade given on UKC.  It’s hard work up to the hands-free rest at half way, then it’s steady 6b+/c climbing to the anchors.  Dusty but nice.  I even managed to pull off a couple of holds, which won’t help.  Recommended.

Poison Ivy, 7a+

6a   6b+   7a+   7a+

Posted 2016/09/04 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2016-07-21 Capçanes, Barranc Del Tortó   Leave a comment

Having climbed here once before – I remember trying the rather butch Carrasclet, 7c a while back, it’s no surprise what this great wall has to offer.  The first time around we didn’t have a topo, this time we do.  And Chema, our guide.  You can get approach instructions from this website.  In summer, a morning crag, in winter an afternoon crag.

2016-07-21 10 Capcanes

What was once a tough 6b+ is now a chilled out 6c and that makes the warm up less stressful.  You lower down from the 33mtr Rústica and think “Yeah, let’s smash the next one” instead of thinking “Holy shit, that was hard, I hope I don’t get spat off the next climb”.  And we do just that – smash Chema and Isma’s 7a send Hecatombe.  Congratulations to Isma for his first 7a, Hecatombe is a worthwhile tick.

Rustica, 6b+   Hecatombe, 7a

And so we move on to Mosca Negra, 7b.  A nice climb of around 6c up to the roof break, then a hard move, some thin things then another hard move before the chain.  Annoyingly I miss the onsight by a schoolboy error, but Paco nails his flash.  And so with three routes and 100 vertical metres, the sun is eating away at the shade at the base of the crag, and it’s time to get a brewski.  At 2:30pm in summer, the sun is on the wall and it’s too hot to climb.  A great sector, with decent routes, and one 7b that will shortly be added to my CV.

6c   7a   7b

Posted 2016/08/08 by allend66 in Uncategorized