2017-11-20 St. Triphon, Le Dentier   Leave a comment

A second day at this crag – it’s south facing as we need in 8 degree temperatures, and there’s still lots to do.  We warm up on Initiation Au Dentier, 5b and Vas-y Mollo, 5c all very textbook and ok.

2017-11-20 07 St Triphon

Les 3 Dévers, 5c+ is next, Le Dentier, 6a and Les Mariés, 6a start to hassle Ric a little, and I should have cruised Pied Gauche, 6b+ but the old Tennis Elbow has me off my game.  An enjoyable day, if a little short.  St. Triphon – so good they climbed it twice, and a good way to finish the holiday.

2017-11-20 14 Le Dentier

5b   5c   5c+   6a   6a   6b+

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Posted 2017/12/06 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2017-11-18 St Triphon, Le Dentier   Leave a comment

South of Montreux is where we find ourselves, basking in sunlight on a fairly decent wall, in a wonderful country.  St. Triphon has a number of routes in all grades, so there’s something for everyone.  Le Dentier has a couple of dozen lines, mostly fairly easy, with a few test pieces, but what is important as the temperature is barely 8 degrees, is it is sheltered from wind and south facing.  Boom! Climbing in T-shirt and shades, estilo español.  Route info can be found on UKC.

So it’s a bit polished – the walk in is super short, there’s plenty of parking, so it’s going to be popular.  Though the crag is quarried, which means all those unnatural angles, the routes are well organised with name plates with grades at the foot of each, so no guide book needed. 

Toit Pointu, 5b+

We start with Toit Pointu, 5b+ and continue the warm up with Fou J’Erre, 5c – both of which were all very good and pleasing.  I think the lines are a little over bolted but hey, it’s all good.  La Discrete starts to sift and is a fairly tough little 6a considering, but it is a decent climb.  With a very short day, we finish on an uppity 6b, Recontre Du 3e Type.  A tough but nice end to the day.

2017-11-18 02 St Triphon

Some intel landed on our desk earlier this week.  A buddy, a pal, a chum, mate if you will, has a good cause going on – and we are a sucker for a good cause, so we are going to check out her charity auction.  I mean, imagine the envious looks when we rock up and pull out that red white and blue lambskin chalk bag at the crag.  Niiice…  We would urge all our readers to do the same.  Both of you.  That includes you, Mum.

5b+   5c   6a   6b

Posted 2017/11/30 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2017-11-17 Switzerland, Vaud, Les Avants   Leave a comment

First time in Switzerland, and the beauty of the country is a little tarnished by low lying cloud and a little early morning fog.  Base camp is downtown Lausanne, so for this morning Lac Laman only looks slightly awesome.  With the ski stations opening last weekend is was a toss up between a bit of ski fun or rock climbing fun.  We chose the latter.

2017-11-17 17 Les Avants

Les Avants is a sector of limited appeal, but as UKC suggests, the routes are better than they look.  Because of the slightly higher altitude though, there is an inch of snow on the ground.  Not a problem – just change shoes on the dry tarp.  There’s also a mix of deciduous and evergreen trees surrounding the area, so Riccardo was having to brush away dead leaves off the holds (ledges, really).  First climb was a very leisurely L’Ours, 5a and the line to the right, La Grotte, 4a.  The route of the day was Chou A La Creme, only a 4a but super fun.  With the sun going, and the rock getting very cold indeed, we finish on 6a, Les Fourmis.

5   4   4   6a

Posted 2017/11/27 by allend66 in Rockclimbing

2017-07-05 Llanymynech, Nomad Wall, Red Wall   Leave a comment

Arriving with sun on all walls, we warm up on the shitty lower section of Nomad Wall – at least giving shade to the belayer.  We only have to wait about an hour for Red Wall to become shady, so we use the time to tick Dentine, 5+, Pull ‘Em Out, 6a+ and Another Filling, 6b+.

2017-07-05 Nomad Wall

With the bird ban restricting climbing from March up to June 30th, we fear that Red Wall will be dusty from lack of traffic.  We get on Long John Codling, 7a but it shuts me down completely at the crux at the 9th bolt.  It is dusty, but the crux is rather beastly for a 7a.  Sweat is dripping of us so we don’t invest any more time on it today.

5+   6a   6b+   7a   7a

Posted 2017/07/06 by allend66 in Llanymynech, Rockclimbing

2017-07-02 Wales, Llanberis, Idwal Slabs   Leave a comment

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b is today’s delight, and thankfully most of the rock has dried out from yesterday’s drizzle.  It’s a three-star classic, 6-pitch 137mtr route which was an absolute joy.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Lou starts off pitch 1 (30mtr, 4a) and after a fair amount of faff eventually gets to the belay ledge.  Pitch 2 was short and sweet, 15mtrs with the hardest move getting onto the face after the belay ledge.  Pitch 3: 18mtrs with more pleasant slab climbing on quartz patches.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Pitch 4 – and this is where things get blurred, should have been 37mtrs according to the guide book, but I climb past the shitty belay ‘ledge’ as my experience tells me I have not even climbed 30mtrs yet, and continue to make the obvious terrace up higher.  But I’m using a 50mtr half rope (thanks to Mr. C) with Lou’s 60mtr half rope (good job we swapped it out at the last minute!).  So when I run out of blue rope I yell down “take me off blue!”.  Just two more mtrs and I make the terrace.  Luckily there were people on the other lines to relay messages between us, as I had joined the 4th and 5th pitch, giving 67mtrs so sayeth the guide book.  With one 50 mtr rope 2 mtrs short, and my 60 mtr rope giving me enough slack to build a multipoint belay, the two pitches weigh in at 53mtrs.  Someone really should edit and correct these damn guidebooks – they charge enough moola for them.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Last pitch before a 100mtr scramble to the ab station is the crux, 4b but only in 15mtrs.  Lou steps up admirably.  An excellent adventure, taking 6 hours.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

HS 4b

Posted 2017/07/04 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2017-07-01 Wales, Trevor, Compact Wall   Leave a comment

We were here around 4 weeks ago to mop up some star routes, but because we weren’t concentrating whilst reading the guide book, we omitted the top-50 star route of Traction Control, 6c.  So even though this were to be a trad weekend, slight moisture in Llanberis meant we rocked up to tick this line and see if Lou can finally get her 6a+.

The Great Escape, 6a+

We warm up on The Great Escape, 6a+ leaving the draws for Lou for a possible redpoint attempt.  Not bad, a little technical, not gifting you much with the grade, but neither is it a 6b, so all good.  Emma opens the nice Snakes In The Grass, 6b just up the road a little, and once I’ve stripped it, I get on Traction Control, 6c.  It looks like there’s been a few breakages low down – some orangey coloured rock where all else is grey, and it feels very bouldery and hard.  It probably was a 6c when it was put up, but now feels more like 6c++.

Traction Control, 6c

With problems just getting both feet off the ground, my onsight is quickly ruined, and I try a few different starts.  Difficult to read, technical, bouldery, it is a lovely line, with the difficulties at the first and upto the 2nd clip.  Make the second clip and you should be golden.  My beta wasn’t good for Emma though, so she’ll have to work it out for herself.  Lou meanwhile is toproping Escape several times, no doubt memorising every millimetre of it.

With Traction ticked, I move onto Hornier Toad, 6b which is pleasant and ultimately put the bolts for Lou on her nearly 6b, Crime Scene on Suspect Wall.  A good day.

6a+   6b   6c   6b   6b

Posted 2017/07/03 by allend66 in Rockclimbing, Trevor

2016-10-16 Arginonta Valley   Leave a comment

So we thought we’d rinse out most of Arginonta Valley, even though they’re new, they will be trashed very soon indeed.  Mix shade all day, with easy grades and a super short walk in, and you’ve got a recipe for crowds and lots of traffic.  On the Middle Wall, we do Ahtarmas, 5a followed by Hippocrates, 6a and then Patókorfa, 6a+ and Tricky-Tricky Mana Mou, 6b+ – route of the day.

On Left Wall, the ticklist reads: Wanderlust, 6c super pumpy, so we go back to Grigna, 6b then Ravasaki, 6a+ and Damos, 6a+ and finally Bohemian Mermaid Ext., 6c+ to finish.

Bohemian Mermaid Ext, 6c+

You heard it here first – get in there before it becomes a polished nightmare.

5a   6a   6a+   6b+   6c   6b   6a+   6a+   6c+

Posted 2016/11/29 by allend66 in Arginonta, Kalymnos, Rockclimbing