Archive for the ‘Raco d’Emmanuelle’ Category

2014-03-23 Arbolí, Raco Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

As I’m a good egg and I already have it sent, I open the wonderful Barrenari, 7a+ for Chema to send on his 2nd try.  Though I try and climb it from memory (it has a few quirks) instead of just climbing what’s in front of me, I mess up both the thin bit lower down and the long reach over the roof.  Still, great fun and with 2 (or 3 if you count after the 1st bolt) hands-free rests, a fairly soft-touch 7a+.

Barrenari, 7a+

Warm up on Tarraf! 6b – another nice line.

6b   7a+

Posted 2014/04/08 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle, Rockclimbing

2013-10-23 Arbolí, Raco D’Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

Maybe the wrong choice of sector today as it was super hot.  There’s some nice things here though being honest it’s a crag with limited interest.  We warm up on Taraf! 6b and then onto Matsutake, 7aCristian was freaking a little on the 7a and cleaned it so I decided to jump on Barrenari, 7a+ which I sent rather comfortably last year 2nd try.  A good indicator on how (bad) my form is, I come off in the middle section, flap at the start of the arete, then fight the long move a couple of times up top just before the chain.  Wow.  Pumpathon.

Barrenari, 7a+   Matsutake, 7a

Seeing how I fought it, Cristian decides to reopen Matsutake but can’t stick the crux.  I decide to give it a go – this was my first 7a send back in the day, and I seem to remember it well. I forgot the long moves on the second slab, but it’s all good, I top out clean.  Inspired, Cristian uses my beta to retry it.  Hey, Rome wasn’t built in a day, bou.

I stay with Victor and Mari Carmen to do the horribly sharp and bouldery 6c+, El Calorro.

El Calorro, 6c+   El Calorro, 6c+

6b   7a+  7a   6c+

Posted 2013/10/28 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle, Rockclimbing

2013-02-06 Arbolí, Racó D’Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

We were going to crush Papágora, 7b+ today.  I’d got my tripod and camera, even brushed my hair.., and it looked like a good omen, some kind sole had left their draws on it, but after a quick warm-up on Mariete De L’Ull Viu, 6a+ in cloud cover and wind, it was too cold.  Total brass monkey weather, so we decamp over to Emmanuelle in Arbolí which we saw was sunny on the drive up.  We suffered a little wind but at least it was sunny.  Complete change from Siurana’s Esperó Primavera.

We quickly send Eh, Manuel! 6c (very nice) and then we’re onto the main event, Trifástic Familiar, 7c to the right.  Some good beta from Claudio, there’s a layback crux early on, then good climbing till the crux at the 9th/10th bolt.

Trifastic Familiar, 7c

I clip the 10th, lower down and retry on a top-rope.  A nice little project this, but there are easier 7c around.  Claudio just misses the send, but should have it next time.

6c   7c   7c   7c

Posted 2013/02/06 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle, Rockclimbing

2013-01-25 Arbolí, Racó D’Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

The early morning Whatsapp changed my mind so I meet Xav up at Coll De Jou.  As always, it’s blowing hard and freezing cold up top at the parking above the quarry, but descend into shelter and I’m climbing without my shirt – beautiful.  We do Opri Refu, 6a (right hand variant finish) and while Xavier and David are doing more warm-ups, I’m getting ready at the far end of the crag, I’d marked Barrenari, 7a+ to do ages ago.  It looks nice and fairly straight forward till the 10 bolt, but my onsight is ruined at a technical move at the 4th.  Then I’m up to the crux at the roof, feet up and a long move to a crimp.  Very nice route, I send it second go.  Xav works Matsutake, 7a to the right, but the short day means I strip it and they’ll try it another time.  Relaxed, but just what the doctor ordered…

Barrenari, 7a+   Matsutake, 7a

6a   7a+   7a+

Posted 2013/01/25 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle, Rockclimbing

2012-10-30 Arbolí, Raco D’Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

Eh, Manuel! 6c

Back to cold and cloud with the threat of rain, so we’re close to home today.  Taraf! 6b and Eh, Manuel, 6c share the same anchor and are both worthwhile climbs, though I’m on a soft day today.  Cristian tries Matsutake, 7a but I pass on it. Samba D’Olla, 6b+ was an awful finish to the day.

6b   6c   6b+

Posted 2012/10/31 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle, Rockclimbing

2012-01-06 Arbolí, Racó D’Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

A nice early 9am start in Alforja and we decide to climb Racó in Arbolí.  I have a few projects pending here, and as always the cold biting wind up top at the parking diminishes to nothing once we descend to the field of play.

2012-01-06 1 Raco D'Emmanuelle

Warm up on the superb Taraf!, 6b, Alvaro sends it and Felipe, trying to bluff us into believing he hasn’t got form, topropes it.  I’m distracted by the nice 6c next to it, but priorities – there’s Matsutake, 7a to redpoint.  I’d forgotten a little about this, the crux slab, and I hang after missing a tiny left foothold.  After this, I send the rest of the route, interestingly as I don’t know differently, I go direct up the dark grey and shortest part.  The holds here are half slopers, half good holds, but the gentle overhang means it’s no walk in the park.

Matsutake, 7a   Matsutake, 7a

On my second attempt, I blaze through the crux and make my way up this time going right at the last 2 bolts to the less obvious overhanging section, but with really nice deep jugs to pull up on, it’s easier than the short line to the left.  Got my first 7a redpoint, what a nice feeling.  Kudos to Alvaro for suggesting the right hand route – it was a brilliant end to the line.  I lower off wearing a huge grin.

Felipe missing the 2nd try on Mat opens the hard as nails 6c+ El Calorro.  For my money more difficult than the 7a.  Overhanging block start, thin next section, sloper terrace under a overhang blocky bulge that is very short on footholds.  Kudos for opening it.

Warm down climbs with the ugly Desertors De La City, 6a+ that needs a tree start, and the excellent watch-out-for-the-finishing-slab Opri-Refu, 6a.

6b   7a   7a   6c+   6a+   6a   Photos

Posted 2012/01/07 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle

2011-04-14 Arbolí, Racó d’Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

Breaking in a new rope partner today, so we flash a few routes in Arbolí before Javier has to go back to work.  Gotta love the life of an English teacher – and I speak from experience!  Well, just 4 repdoints today: Upri-Refu 6a, San-Tiveri 6a+, Dos Pedres 6b+, Taraf! 6b.  All clean ascents, all nice routes.  A shame we didn’t have time to look at the seemingly beautiful 6c to the left of the mighty Taraf! but Eh, Manuel! is on the list…  As is a redpoint repeat of Matsutake 7a and Barrenari, 7a+.  Soooon, Zoltan!  Topo in the Topo page.

6a  6a+  6b+  6b

Posted 2011/04/14 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle, Rockclimbing