Archive for the ‘Primitiu’ Category

2012-06-06 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

A warm up on Laia, 6a and Atlantida, 6a+ to get going – Mau the bou not having climbed for ages, then we leave Primitiu for Roure and I get on the recommended Tu No Vadis, 6b+ but half way up I slip off a sloper and end up straining my left hamstring.  Here’s the culprit that’s put me off climbing for a couple of weeks:

Tu No Vadis, 6b+

6a   6a+   6b+


Posted 2012/06/07 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing, Roure

2012-06-04 La Mussara, Primitiu   Leave a comment

After the weekend’s bouldering trip to Albaracín was scuppered  thanks to a virulent infection, today’s first day climbing in 6 days was just what the doctor ordered: lots of long easy routes.  3 star routes in Primitiu to lube up the joints for tomorrow.  Today we tick Atlantida, 6a+, Lenceria, 6a+, Kalium, 6a done twice, and Laia, 6a.  165mtrs redpointed.

6a+   6a+   6a   6a   6a

Posted 2012/06/04 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing

2011-11-21 La Mussara, Primitiu   Leave a comment

Well, my local crag notwithstanding, Primitiu was today’s objective because a) there are a load of quality routes here, and b) it gives quick access to the motorway.  Mat romps up Alabamas, 5 and Gandalf El Gris, 5+ before I warm up on Laia, 6a.  After this I redo K2, 6b – one drastically hard move, the rest a romp.  Mat has fun on Scala Dei, 6a+ until the + makes itself known on the upper section, but he comes down grinning.  I clean this great route, then we do Lanceria, 6a+.  Just one more climb to finish, Kalium, 6a+.  All 35 metre routes, and all great.  Hey, this is my local crag, a 12 minute saunter down to Maspujols, and beyond.

6a   6b   6a+   6a+   6a+

Posted 2011/11/26 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu

2011-08-18 La Mussara   Leave a comment

Primitiu today as it’s close, we’re tired and the nights are drawing in.  I start with Alvaro, and Rocteam joins us later.  We warm up on Laia, 6a and get in on the first line on the wall which I have never tried, Kalium, 6a.  There’s a conflict in the naming and grading between the refuge guide and the Rockfax Daurada guide, either way they’re high in the grade: the 6a+ Polux has a bare slab at the end with not even one knuckle monofingers to get through.  Whoever said “Mussara no regala nada” was right.  A welcome onsight and redpoint.  We finish the day with Climber Up, 6a+ which I saw Alvaro try with his sister a while ago, but it’s always been on my to do list.  Today was the day and a block start gives way to easier climbing up top and I onsight/flash this one too.

6a   6a   6a+   6a+

Posted 2011/08/18 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu

2011-07-14 La Mussara, Primitiu   Leave a comment

Well, I can finally cross Laia, 6a off the list.  K2, 6b redpointed next and the foul Irati, 6c+ worked.  Avoid this POS.

6a   6b   6c+

Posted 2011/07/14 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing

2011-06-24 La Mussara, Primitiu & Roure   Leave a comment

The morning after the night before.  Or rather the early afternoon after the night before.  I meet Eoin at 1ish and we head up to La Mussara.  Eoin’s only climbed Siurana & Arbolí so I decided Isabel (shade) would be nice.  When we arrived it was clouding over, so we changed to Primitiu.  If the sun did come out again, it would only be for a couple of hours – it enjoying shade after 4pm.

Eoin quickly sends Alabama’s, 5 & Gandalf El Gris, 5+ and cleans them.  I warm up on a very nice onsight, 3-star, pumpy, 35 meter Philadelfia, 6a+.  One of the few remaining routes on this wall that I don’t know.  There’s a thin section half way, and of course it shares the top end of Scala Dei, 6a+.  This from the Rockfax guide: “Another striking crack […] Watch out for the technical pocket pulling on the top wall which makes it stiff for the grade.  Fantastic.”  I’d agree with that, Sir.  Eoin cleans up after me though not before falling at the initial veer right.  He’ll make up for it later.

Next route is another 3-star beauty, Castor, 6a+ and I’m making great progress till the end bulge.  I clip the last, can see the belay but the roof has no foot holds and I fall missing an onsight.  Grrrr!  Same story for Ireland.  We break for lunch.

Álvaro and his sister Patricia arrive.  They mop up the left hand side of the wall and Eoin onsights Laia, 6a+ (6a in the ‘Fax!) .  Kudos – after several attempts I’ve given up on redpointing it.  Next I look at Esperó De Tardor, 5 the first route on the next wall Roure.  The start is strange and the mid section looks like my terrace – flat with lots of weeds growing over it.  Still, good to just move and clip, move and clip.  Wisely Eoin bails but I leave it open for the other two.  Eoin opens Doll De Lluna, 6a with Lacónia, 6a as an extension.  A rope rethread is needed but easy enough.  I get on the route and Álvaro & Pati marchan.  I have half his draws from leaving mine on the undergrowth route.

Time for a quicky So Far Away, 6a .  At only 3 clips (rusty old ones at that – and not even parabolts!), it’s quick alright, but explosive.  Two onsights to finish a good day.

6a+   6a+  5   6a   6a   6a   Photos

Posted 2011/06/25 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing, Roure

2011-06-16 La Mussara, Primitiu   Leave a comment

Met Veronica after work for a quick practice before BOCS this Saturday.  3: The number of lines we do each and the number of huge eagles we see soaring over us.  Fantastic!  Alabama’s, 5, Gandalf El Gris, 5+ then for me Scala Dei, 6a and for Vero Esperó De L’Alba, 5.  The last time I did Scala Dei with Meli, I redpointed it without clipping the last 3 bolts (including the crux) – today I had to grab the draw at the crux.

And Kudos to Vero for opening!

5   5+   6a

Posted 2011/06/16 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing