A warm up on Laia, 6a and Atlantida, 6a+ to get going – Mau the bou not having climbed for ages, then we leave Primitiu for Roure and I get on the recommended Tu No Vadis, 6b+ but half way up I slip off a sloper and end up straining my left hamstring.  Here’s the culprit that’s put me off climbing for a couple of weeks:

6a   6a+   6b+

After the weekend’s bouldering trip to Albaracín was scuppered  thanks to a virulent infection, today’s first day climbing in 6 days was just what the doctor ordered: lots of long easy routes.  3 star routes in Primitiu to lube up the joints for tomorrow.  Today we tick Atlantida, 6a+, Lenceria, 6a+, Kalium, 6a done twice, and Laia, 6a.  165mtrs redpointed.

6a+   6a+   6a   6a   6a

Well, my local crag notwithstanding, Primitiu was today’s objective because a) there are a load of quality routes here, and b) it gives quick access to the motorway.  Mat romps up Alabamas, 5 and Gandalf El Gris, 5+ before I warm up on Laia, 6a.  After this I redo K2, 6b – one drastically hard move, the rest a romp.  Mat has fun on Scala Dei, 6a+ until the + makes itself known on the upper section, but he comes down grinning.  I clean this great route, then we do Lanceria, 6a+.  Just one more climb to finish, Kalium, 6a+.  All 35 metre routes, and all great.  Hey, this is my local crag, a 12 minute saunter down to Maspujols, and beyond.

6a   6b   6a+   6a+   6a+

Primitiu today as it’s close, we’re tired and the nights are drawing in.  I start with Alvaro, and Rocteam joins us later.  We warm up on Laia, 6a and get in on the first line on the wall which I have never tried, Kalium, 6a.  There’s a conflict in the naming and grading between the refuge guide and the Rockfax Daurada guide, either way they’re high in the grade: the 6a+ Polux has a bare slab at the end with not even one knuckle monofingers to get through.  Whoever said “Mussara no regala nada” was right.  A welcome onsight and redpoint.  We finish the day with Climber Up, 6a+ which I saw Alvaro try with his sister a while ago, but it’s always been on my to do list.  Today was the day and a block start gives way to easier climbing up top and I onsight/flash this one too.

6a   6a   6a+   6a+

Well, I can finally cross Laia, 6a off the list.  K2, 6b redpointed next and the foul Irati, 6c+ worked.  Avoid this POS.

6a   6b   6c+

The morning after the night before.  Or rather the early afternoon after the night before.  I meet Eoin at 1ish and we head up to La Mussara.  Eoin’s only climbed Siurana & Arbolí so I decided Isabel (shade) would be nice.  When we arrived it was clouding over, so we changed to Primitiu.  If the sun did come out again, it would only be for a couple of hours – it enjoying shade after 4pm.

Eoin quickly sends Alabama’s, 5 & Gandalf El Gris, 5+ and cleans them.  I warm up on a very nice onsight, 3-star, pumpy, 35 meter Philadelfia, 6a+.  One of the few remaining routes on this wall that I don’t know.  There’s a thin section half way, and of course it shares the top end of Scala Dei, 6a+.  This from the Rockfax guide: “Another striking crack […] Watch out for the technical pocket pulling on the top wall which makes it stiff for the grade.  Fantastic.”  I’d agree with that, Sir.  Eoin cleans up after me though not before falling at the initial veer right.  He’ll make up for it later.

Next route is another 3-star beauty, Castor, 6a+ and I’m making great progress till the end bulge.  I clip the last, can see the belay but the roof has no foot holds and I fall missing an onsight.  Grrrr!  Same story for Ireland.  We break for lunch.

Álvaro and his sister Patricia arrive.  They mop up the left hand side of the wall and Eoin onsights Laia, 6a+ (6a in the ‘Fax!) .  Kudos – after several attempts I’ve given up on redpointing it.  Next I look at Esperó De Tardor, 5 the first route on the next wall Roure.  The start is strange and the mid section looks like my terrace – flat with lots of weeds growing over it.  Still, good to just move and clip, move and clip.  Wisely Eoin bails but I leave it open for the other two.  Eoin opens Doll De Lluna, 6a with Lacónia, 6a as an extension.  A rope rethread is needed but easy enough.  I get on the route and Álvaro & Pati marchan.  I have half his draws from leaving mine on the undergrowth route.

Time for a quicky So Far Away, 6a .  At only 3 clips (rusty old ones at that – and not even parabolts!), it’s quick alright, but explosive.  Two onsights to finish a good day.

6a+   6a+  5   6a   6a   6a   Photos

Met Veronica after work for a quick practice before BOCS this Saturday.  3: The number of lines we do each and the number of huge eagles we see soaring over us.  Fantastic!  Alabama’s, 5, Gandalf El Gris, 5+ then for me Scala Dei, 6a and for Vero Esperó De L’Alba, 5.  The last time I did Scala Dei with Meli, I redpointed it without clipping the last 3 bolts (including the crux) – today I had to grab the draw at the crux.

And Kudos to Vero for opening!

5   5+   6a

Just time for a couple of routes today – I don’t want to but the physiotherapy must be done.  I’ve still got some routes unticked at Primitiu and because it’s reasonably close to the car park that’s where we go.  Meli and Albert, the Vilaplana stalwarts are here still trying to corrupt Laia.

We warm up on the shitty 5 right of Alabama’s – Esperó De L’Alba… definitely won’t be repeating this.  I even had to second it to clean the brute.  Yeuch!  Then a strange 6b to the right of Laia – K2 .  Strange part nearly half way up where you have to very left and the return.   Back home looking forward to my next climb day, which I hope isn’t next weekend.  I want to climb today or tomorrow!!!!!

5  6b

First day climbing after the ankle/ligament saga.  Nice and easy, gentle exercise to get me back into the groove.  Because it was cloudy, and because I’d left all my topos at work, I decide on Primitiu.  Mario opens all routes.  Alabama’s 5, Gandalf El Gris 5+, Scala Dei 6a, and the route next to the route on the left hand side of Scala Dei.  The two 6’s I top-rope and after my ankle feels a little uncomfortable.  No pain but I know I’ve been working it.  OK, time to fold.  I’ m not going to force anything.

5  5+  6a  6a+

Or “Adventures in Rock-climbing #1”

We had planned on going to Isabel, soak up some shade now that the temperatures are getting higher, but Maurici & Xell bailed, so Meli & myself, not knowing how to get there, went to Primitiu.  At 4:30pm it was in shade.  Using a 60-metre rope, I get up Laia – the 6a that’s more like a 6b/+.  Had to veer off left to the belay, not having enough rope to run up to the top as before.  From the 4th bolt up this is a great climb, but the bottom section’s polished.  Many people have started and abandoned it when they realise the grading is clearly wrong.

Well, there are some routes in the middle of the wall as yet untried, so I have a look at Scala Dei, 6a.  Wow – what a beauty.  I take up 12 draws with me and tied into the 60mtr rope check in the guide that all the routes are from 18-30 metres.  I make good progress up some fine rock, not polished and clean.  I get to a bulge, where there should be a belay, but there isn’t one.  Oh well, keep on going.  Meli shouts up “You’re half way on the rope” and I still have nearly 10 metres to climb!  At this point I run out of quickdraws, so I have to miss out two bolts and trust in the force.

I reach the belay after a thin piece of slab that doesn’t have much, and clip into my emergency HMS – there only being a ring on the chain.  I shout to Meli to tie a knot in the end of the rope to not pass through the Gri-Gri, and lower me down slowly.  He reaches the end of the rope and I’m left hanging at the 4th clip.  I clip into the bolt to make myself safe and tell Meli to take me off belay, then pull then rope through.  I then pass the rope through the draw on the bolt, and using my Wild Country Variable Ascender rappel down the last 10 metres, clipping in as I pass each bolt.  Phew!

Lucky we have a 70 metre rope in the car!  I double-time it back to the parking and when I return Meli is ready to climb.

“Take a couple draws with you..” I say.  “Why?”  “Because the last 2 bolts before the belay don’t have draws in them”…

After oh-so nearly onsighting it, Meli tops out but can’t open the screwgate.  It never rains but it pours…  After fannying about for 10 minutes, I finally lower him to the ground.

Looking at me with awe, he says “Hostia, dos chapas perdidas y un auto-rescate… como un profesional!” to which I reply “¡Esto es Esparta!”

Round off the evening with spectacular views of the sunset on Gandalf El Gris, 5+.

6a, 6a, 5+