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2017-11-20 St. Triphon, Le Dentier   Leave a comment

A second day at this crag – it’s south facing as we need in 8 degree temperatures, and there’s still lots to do.  We warm up on Initiation Au Dentier, 5b and Vas-y Mollo, 5c all very textbook and ok.

2017-11-20 07 St Triphon

Les 3 Dévers, 5c+ is next, Le Dentier, 6a and Les Mariés, 6a start to hassle Ric a little, and I should have cruised Pied Gauche, 6b+ but the old Tennis Elbow has me off my game.  An enjoyable day, if a little short.  St. Triphon – so good they climbed it twice, and a good way to finish the holiday.

2017-11-20 14 Le Dentier

5b   5c   5c+   6a   6a   6b+

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Posted 2017/12/06 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2017-11-18 St Triphon, Le Dentier   Leave a comment

South of Montreux is where we find ourselves, basking in sunlight on a fairly decent wall, in a wonderful country.  St. Triphon has a number of routes in all grades, so there’s something for everyone.  Le Dentier has a couple of dozen lines, mostly fairly easy, with a few test pieces, but what is important as the temperature is barely 8 degrees, is it is sheltered from wind and south facing.  Boom! Climbing in T-shirt and shades, estilo español.  Route info can be found on UKC.

So it’s a bit polished – the walk in is super short, there’s plenty of parking, so it’s going to be popular.  Though the crag is quarried, which means all those unnatural angles, the routes are well organised with name plates with grades at the foot of each, so no guide book needed. 

Toit Pointu, 5b+

We start with Toit Pointu, 5b+ and continue the warm up with Fou J’Erre, 5c – both of which were all very good and pleasing.  I think the lines are a little over bolted but hey, it’s all good.  La Discrete starts to sift and is a fairly tough little 6a considering, but it is a decent climb.  With a very short day, we finish on an uppity 6b, Recontre Du 3e Type.  A tough but nice end to the day.

2017-11-18 02 St Triphon

Some intel landed on our desk earlier this week.  A buddy, a pal, a chum, mate if you will, has a good cause going on – and we are a sucker for a good cause, so we are going to check out her charity auction.  I mean, imagine the envious looks when we rock up and pull out that red white and blue lambskin chalk bag at the crag.  Niiice…  We would urge all our readers to do the same.  Both of you.  That includes you, Mum.

5b+   5c   6a   6b

Posted 2017/11/30 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2017-07-02 Wales, Llanberis, Idwal Slabs   Leave a comment

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b is today’s delight, and thankfully most of the rock has dried out from yesterday’s drizzle.  It’s a three-star classic, 6-pitch 137mtr route which was an absolute joy.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Lou starts off pitch 1 (30mtr, 4a) and after a fair amount of faff eventually gets to the belay ledge.  Pitch 2 was short and sweet, 15mtrs with the hardest move getting onto the face after the belay ledge.  Pitch 3: 18mtrs with more pleasant slab climbing on quartz patches.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Pitch 4 – and this is where things get blurred, should have been 37mtrs according to the guide book, but I climb past the shitty belay ‘ledge’ as my experience tells me I have not even climbed 30mtrs yet, and continue to make the obvious terrace up higher.  But I’m using a 50mtr half rope (thanks to Mr. C) with Lou’s 60mtr half rope (good job we swapped it out at the last minute!).  So when I run out of blue rope I yell down “take me off blue!”.  Just two more mtrs and I make the terrace.  Luckily there were people on the other lines to relay messages between us, as I had joined the 4th and 5th pitch, giving 67mtrs so sayeth the guide book.  With one 50 mtr rope 2 mtrs short, and my 60 mtr rope giving me enough slack to build a multipoint belay, the two pitches weigh in at 53mtrs.  Someone really should edit and correct these damn guidebooks – they charge enough moola for them.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Last pitch before a 100mtr scramble to the ab station is the crux, 4b but only in 15mtrs.  Lou steps up admirably.  An excellent adventure, taking 6 hours.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

HS 4b

Posted 2017/07/04 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-10-15 Arginonta Skyline, Little Verdon   Leave a comment

A looong schlep in, this is a fairly distant crag, both from the accommodation and from the parking.  But it was recommended and we hadn’t tried it before, so we were up for a new experience.  And we were glad we did.  After arriving and resting for 5, we warm up on Lou Lou, 6a+ and Zipfelmutz, 6b.  Ready for a fight, Tom Tom Club, 7a+ looks beefy and we have a play on it but it’s thuggy and pumpy and overhanging – not my style.  It also seems to be on top of a goat latrine, and the ammonia smell is a little distracting.

2016-10-15 15 Little Verdon

We leave this and go back right along the wall to a musical note 7a, Fioca with which I was looking to up my onsight tally by one, but it was a little hard to read.  I put a couple of chalk tick marks and send it 2nd try – a magnificent line.  Route of the day.

Fioca, 7a

Though the sun has now arrived, I continue with Trou Por Trou, 6b to cool down before being out-voted to hit Emporios, for beer, beach and nosebag.

After too long a lunch, we rock up to Arginonta Valley, where my belayer informs me he is on strike after three routes, so I look for 3-star routes in the guide, and surprise, surprise, they are ALL 3 stars!  The guidebook people definitely need an editor.  I do Rhythm Of The Rain, 6a, Thunder Road, 6b, and Rufixius, 6a+.  There isn’t really anything to differentiate between them, they are all pleasant, all dusty, and all showing early signs of polish.  A good day.

6a+   6b   7a+   7a   7a   6b   6a   6b   6a+

Posted 2016/11/28 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-09-19 Llanymynech, Grid Iron Wall   Leave a comment

Back to the old favourite, and one of the closer crags to home.  I still have plenty of work to do here, and buoyed by recent crushage on Poison Ivy, 7a+ on the Red Wall, I try and tick the remaining two hard routes left on Grid Iron.

After a quick warm up on Smack The Juggler, 6b+, I’m ready for my project.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+ (hence forth known as Pew) recently had a bit of escape tat hanging off it at what was presumably the crux, just before the overlap.  Sportsclimbs also tells us the crux is pulling through this overlap, so no surprise there.  We get on it.  The lower section is rather scrappy but requires some delicate and careful climbing, and isn’t too offensive.  Sure the rock isn’t super quality, but the movements needed to ascend are rather nice.  Then the pale coloured mid-section jumps up you and there are some stiff moves needed.  I work out a first hard move to reach the pocket (not hard when you know how!) under the roof, then progress is stopped.  I try and traverse over to the right – not a great hold.  I try straight up through a minging sloper – not good.  The good rescue hold is just too far away.  I work it for a while, but am left flummoxed as I strip it for another day.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+

With still some energy left, (though not enough for Pew), I get on Curfew, 6b+ which is always nice, and quickly round off the day with another send of Jack The Smuggler, 6c+ / 7a.

6b+   7a+   7a+  6b+   7a

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-07-21 Capçanes, Barranc Del Tortó   Leave a comment

Having climbed here once before – I remember trying the rather butch Carrasclet, 7c a while back, it’s no surprise what this great wall has to offer.  The first time around we didn’t have a topo, this time we do.  And Chema, our guide.  You can get approach instructions from this website.  In summer, a morning crag, in winter an afternoon crag.

2016-07-21 10 Capcanes

What was once a tough 6b+ is now a chilled out 6c and that makes the warm up less stressful.  You lower down from the 33mtr Rústica and think “Yeah, let’s smash the next one” instead of thinking “Holy shit, that was hard, I hope I don’t get spat off the next climb”.  And we do just that – smash Chema and Isma’s 7a send Hecatombe.  Congratulations to Isma for his first 7a, Hecatombe is a worthwhile tick.

Rustica, 6b+   Hecatombe, 7a

And so we move on to Mosca Negra, 7b.  A nice climb of around 6c up to the roof break, then a hard move, some thin things then another hard move before the chain.  Annoyingly I miss the onsight by a schoolboy error, but Paco nails his flash.  And so with three routes and 100 vertical metres, the sun is eating away at the shade at the base of the crag, and it’s time to get a brewski.  At 2:30pm in summer, the sun is on the wall and it’s too hot to climb.  A great sector, with decent routes, and one 7b that will shortly be added to my CV.

6c   7a   7b

Posted 2016/08/08 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-05-04 La Mussara, Lo Raval   Leave a comment

La Mussara, sector Lo Raval.

In the drone video footage, Derek and Edu climbing the line El Falcó De Castelló, 7b+ and Maurici climbing the line Golondrino Sobaquero, 6c

Posted 2016/06/04 by allend66 in Uncategorized