Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

2017-07-02 Wales, Llanberis, Idwal Slabs   Leave a comment

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b is today’s delight, and thankfully most of the rock has dried out from yesterday’s drizzle.  It’s a three-star classic, 6-pitch 137mtr route which was an absolute joy.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Lou starts off pitch 1 (30mtr, 4a) and after a fair amount of faff eventually gets to the belay ledge.  Pitch 2 was short and sweet, 15mtrs with the hardest move getting onto the face after the belay ledge.  Pitch 3: 18mtrs with more pleasant slab climbing on quartz patches.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Pitch 4 – and this is where things get blurred, should have been 37mtrs according to the guide book, but I climb past the shitty belay ‘ledge’ as my experience tells me I have not even climbed 30mtrs yet, and continue to make the obvious terrace up higher.  But I’m using a 50mtr half rope (thanks to Mr. C) with Lou’s 60mtr half rope (good job we swapped it out at the last minute!).  So when I run out of blue rope I yell down “take me off blue!”.  Just two more mtrs and I make the terrace.  Luckily there were people on the other lines to relay messages between us, as I had joined the 4th and 5th pitch, giving 67mtrs so sayeth the guide book.  With one 50 mtr rope 2 mtrs short, and my 60 mtr rope giving me enough slack to build a multipoint belay, the two pitches weigh in at 53mtrs.  Someone really should edit and correct these damn guidebooks – they charge enough moola for them.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

Last pitch before a 100mtr scramble to the ab station is the crux, 4b but only in 15mtrs.  Lou steps up admirably.  An excellent adventure, taking 6 hours.

Tennis Shoe, HS 4b

HS 4b

Posted 2017/07/04 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-10-15 Arginonta Skyline, Little Verdon   Leave a comment

A looong schlep in, this is a fairly distant crag, both from the accommodation and from the parking.  But it was recommended and we hadn’t tried it before, so we were up for a new experience.  And we were glad we did.  After arriving and resting for 5, we warm up on Lou Lou, 6a+ and Zipfelmutz, 6b.  Ready for a fight, Tom Tom Club, 7a+ looks beefy and we have a play on it but it’s thuggy and pumpy and overhanging – not my style.  It also seems to be on top of a goat latrine, and the ammonia smell is a little distracting.

2016-10-15 15 Little Verdon

We leave this and go back right along the wall to a musical note 7a, Fioca with which I was looking to up my onsight tally by one, but it was a little hard to read.  I put a couple of chalk tick marks and send it 2nd try – a magnificent line.  Route of the day.

Fioca, 7a

Though the sun has now arrived, I continue with Trou Por Trou, 6b to cool down before being out-voted to hit Emporios, for beer, beach and nosebag.

After too long a lunch, we rock up to Arginonta Valley, where my belayer informs me he is on strike after three routes, so I look for 3-star routes in the guide, and surprise, surprise, they are ALL 3 stars!  The guidebook people definitely need an editor.  I do Rhythm Of The Rain, 6a, Thunder Road, 6b, and Rufixius, 6a+.  There isn’t really anything to differentiate between them, they are all pleasant, all dusty, and all showing early signs of polish.  A good day.

6a+   6b   7a+   7a   7a   6b   6a   6b   6a+

Posted 2016/11/28 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-09-19 Llanymynech, Grid Iron Wall   Leave a comment

Back to the old favourite, and one of the closer crags to home.  I still have plenty of work to do here, and buoyed by recent crushage on Poison Ivy, 7a+ on the Red Wall, I try and tick the remaining two hard routes left on Grid Iron.

After a quick warm up on Smack The Juggler, 6b+, I’m ready for my project.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+ (hence forth known as Pew) recently had a bit of escape tat hanging off it at what was presumably the crux, just before the overlap.  Sportsclimbs also tells us the crux is pulling through this overlap, so no surprise there.  We get on it.  The lower section is rather scrappy but requires some delicate and careful climbing, and isn’t too offensive.  Sure the rock isn’t super quality, but the movements needed to ascend are rather nice.  Then the pale coloured mid-section jumps up you and there are some stiff moves needed.  I work out a first hard move to reach the pocket (not hard when you know how!) under the roof, then progress is stopped.  I try and traverse over to the right – not a great hold.  I try straight up through a minging sloper – not good.  The good rescue hold is just too far away.  I work it for a while, but am left flummoxed as I strip it for another day.

Pew, Pew, Barney, McGrew, Cuthbert, Dibble, Grub, 7a+

With still some energy left, (though not enough for Pew), I get on Curfew, 6b+ which is always nice, and quickly round off the day with another send of Jack The Smuggler, 6c+ / 7a.

6b+   7a+   7a+  6b+   7a

Posted 2016/11/01 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-07-21 Capçanes, Barranc Del Tortó   Leave a comment

Having climbed here once before – I remember trying the rather butch Carrasclet, 7c a while back, it’s no surprise what this great wall has to offer.  The first time around we didn’t have a topo, this time we do.  And Chema, our guide.  You can get approach instructions from this website.  In summer, a morning crag, in winter an afternoon crag.

2016-07-21 10 Capcanes

What was once a tough 6b+ is now a chilled out 6c and that makes the warm up less stressful.  You lower down from the 33mtr Rústica and think “Yeah, let’s smash the next one” instead of thinking “Holy shit, that was hard, I hope I don’t get spat off the next climb”.  And we do just that – smash Chema and Isma’s 7a send Hecatombe.  Congratulations to Isma for his first 7a, Hecatombe is a worthwhile tick.

Rustica, 6b+   Hecatombe, 7a

And so we move on to Mosca Negra, 7b.  A nice climb of around 6c up to the roof break, then a hard move, some thin things then another hard move before the chain.  Annoyingly I miss the onsight by a schoolboy error, but Paco nails his flash.  And so with three routes and 100 vertical metres, the sun is eating away at the shade at the base of the crag, and it’s time to get a brewski.  At 2:30pm in summer, the sun is on the wall and it’s too hot to climb.  A great sector, with decent routes, and one 7b that will shortly be added to my CV.

6c   7a   7b

Posted 2016/08/08 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-05-04 La Mussara, Lo Raval   Leave a comment

La Mussara, sector Lo Raval.

In the drone video footage, Derek and Edu climbing the line El Falcó De Castelló, 7b+ and Maurici climbing the line Golondrino Sobaquero, 6c

Posted 2016/06/04 by allend66 in Uncategorized

bOU-CLOGs   Leave a comment

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boushoes

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The prototypes are currently being tested on the crag.  More news to come…

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Posted 2016/04/13 by allend66 in Uncategorized

2016-03-20 Wales, Dinbren, Climb High Area   1 comment

I have a love-hate thing going on with Dinbren.  It’s pumpy and most climbs are generally hard to read, but there are some great lines here.  If a little short.  We warm up on the nice Traction Trauma, 6c+ and while Nick’s setting up a residency on Walking With Barrence, 7b, I convince my prótégé to get on Climb High, 7a.  Apparently, it’s got “the mother of all rock overs” (hmmm thanks for the beta, shitty Rockfax guide – there goes my onsight).  Feels more like the mother of all mantle shelves.

Surprisingly this is a 7a that is giving me difficulty.  Not being a big fan of (or particularly good at – Ed) rock overs, I try and do it without rocking over, instead first trying to take a three finger half-knuckle left hand undercling out left at ledge height, but failing to deliver on the necessary ninja moves after.  I try the rock over.  I try an intermediate rock over.  I try going right, straight up, a little left, nothing.  All result in Marc practising his dynamic belaying.

Climb High, 7a

Marc and Martin have a go, even a couple of trad shmoes fail on it, this is proving one tough climb.  The split from the joint start is nice, where the line forks, traversing up and right up to the ledge, but it feels too short and too much work for not much enjoyment.  It reminds me of eating prawns.  All that work, and so little meat.  After spending a day trying to send it, I doubt I’ll be back on it anytime soon.  Good fun though.

To finish off the day, I have a half-hearted play on Barrence, which I tried with Antoni back in the day.

6c+   7a   7a   7a   7b

Posted 2016/04/08 by allend66 in Uncategorized