Archive for the ‘Montsant’ Category

2013-02-07 Montsant, Raco De Misa   Leave a comment

Crisp and cold conditions in Raco De Misa, but with sun it’s excellent.  Climb in the shade though…

2013-02-07 07 Raco De Misa

We warm up on Nanses Del Priorat, 6c which I should have flashed but the pump got to me.  You really need to be comboing Montsant’s pocket pulling with Siurana’s crimp style climbing, otherwise you suffer.  Now on to my project, the nice Catalonia Is Not Patagonia, 7b 37mtrs of quality. 

There’s some solid 6c climbing, a delicate monofinger sequence at the half way ledge and then more 6c/+ ground till the crux at the bulge at around 30mtrs.  Fortunately, there’s a nice rest just below it, so you can recover, but the crux spat me off again.  Then trying to work the best way to do it, I rip off a flap of skin on my 3rd finger right hand on a sharp deep pocket after the crux but on hard ground.  Once stopped bleeding, I gnaw off the flapper but I don’t feel like taping it up to retry, so I’m done for the day.  Miki strips it for me, it becoming a nice project for him too.

Catalonia Is Not Patagonia, 7b

Pedro crushes Hidrofobia, 8a and I give him a catch on Curt, 7b+ and we hike down in fading sun though you don’t notice the 4 degrees till you’re in shade.

6c   7b

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Posted 2013/02/08 by allend66 in Montsant, Raco De Misa, Rockclimbing

2012-12-22 Montsant, Barrots   Leave a comment

Barrots

Taking a recommendation from our good friends at Gold Coast Climbs – an excellent guide service for rock-climbers, Javilongo & myself head up to Barrots on this brilliant sunny day.  The approach is a good 60 minutes but the views, and the climbing are well worth it.  I warm up on the pumpy Planeta Pupazza, 6c which was very nice, then do the excellent 3rd pitch of El Monstruo Del Arbo-Ness, 7a though I hang on it, but wow… I’ll have to come back and do it in its entirety, 120mtrs, 4 pitches, 6b,6b+,7a,6b.  Javi tells me the 2nd pitch is a little chossy, but still worth doing.

El Monstruo Del Arbo-Ness, 7a

After the maestro opens La Senyal, 7c , I play on the wonderful Unnamed Route #16, 7a which was long and difficult.  There’s a block start, then some thin patches in the middle, but excellent stuff.  There’s enough time, though no stamina, for Ciclop, 6b on the lower tier.  First impressions: an excellent but hard-for-the-grade sector, as they say, “no te regala nada…”

2012-12-23 22 Barrots   2012-12-23 26 Barrots

6c   7a   7a   6b

Posted 2012/12/23 by allend66 in Barrots, Montsant, Rockclimbing

2012-11-20 Montsant, Raco De Misa   Leave a comment

Pocket-pulling in one of the best sectors is a nice compliment to Siurana’s crimps.  Though the approach is steep, the routes are well worth it.  Unnamed route #27, 6b+ is a warm up, then I open my project Catalonia Is Not Patagonia, 7b and make it to the crux OK.  Last time I went left at the crux roof, three-quarters the way up, Pedro suggesting today I take the last two finger pocket with my right and go left.  Unfortunately my fingers get caught in a deep pocket, they bend back and I’m off.  Here’s Pedro on the neighbouring route La Llum, 7b:

La Llum, 7b

PJ sends Púrolitic Extensión, 7a+, Montsantrrat, 7b+, and works Mea Culpa, 7b+.  There’s so many climbs here to be done, including the famous Hidrofóbia, 8a, seen here with an unknown climber:

Hidrofobia, 8a

6b+   7b   7b

Posted 2012/11/21 by allend66 in Montsant, Raco De Misa, Rockclimbing

2012-10-29 Montsant, Raco De Misa   Leave a comment

The sun arrives at the easy left hand section and creeps right along the wall eventually into the corner and onto Salfores.  By 9am we are already T-shirtless and warming up on 35mtrs of quality #28, 6b.  The very cold and windy night forcing me to take measures against the cold rock temperature numbing our fingers.  I heat a medium-sized pebble on the Camping Gaz and throw it in the chalk bag.  This little heat bomb makes the climbing perfect.

#28, 6b

The sun now fully on the rest of the sector, I mop up the missed onsight from yesterday, Rata Arraconada, 7a and then onto another long route, Catalonia Is Not Patagonia, 7b.  Again, another beautiful route, with some solid moves for the majority of its length.  There’s a thin section low down where I have to monofinger (first knuckle only) to get feet up and cross-over reach the next two-finger pocket, then it’s pocket pulling all the way to the crux.  Unfortunately the crux comes at about 30mtrs off the ground, though there is a reasonable shake-out pocket beforehand.  I need to work the crux a few times, but I’m not sure I’ll send this second go.

Catalonia Is Not Patagonia, 7b

After a rest, I know I’m not going to send it, so to finish the day I try the difficult 7a, Purolitic.  Pumpy.

6b   7a   7b   7a

Posted 2012/10/30 by allend66 in Montsant, Raco De Misa, Rockclimbing

2012-10-28 Montsant, Raco De Misa   Leave a comment

An early start for the long steep approach, but once we get there it’s so worth it.  The views are inspiring and the rock mostly top quality. 

2012-10-28 02 Raco De Misa

Roughly 4 years since I was last in this sector, the absence only to get more strength and level to be able to appreciate the incredible routes here.  Xavi and Jack open #37, 7a and Cris and I open Rata Arraconada, 7a.  Climbing without T-shirts but the rock is very cold, I miss an onsight on this difficult to read line.  40 minutes later with the sun on the rock, the rock temperature is no longer hurting our fingers and I onsight #37, 7a.

Rata Arraconada, 7a  

While the boys go and play on Montsantrrat, 7b+ (block start, no thanks!), I choose to open an aesthetic 7a+, La Terra Promesa.  It starts nice, and gets better and better.  There’s a couple of difficult moves, but it is all super nice.  I need to work the little roof-bulge crux, but 16 draws and 35mtrs later of solid climbing I’m pumped but very happy.  Cristina topropes, and I send it on the second go – a brilliant route.

Montsantrrat, 7b+   La Terra Promesa, 7a+

7a  7a   7a+  7a+

Posted 2012/10/30 by allend66 in Montsant, Raco De Misa, Rockclimbing

2012-10-05 Montsant, Cingles De Sant Joan   Leave a comment

Cingles De Sant Joan is an excellent sector, and possibly because of the steep ascent putting people off, it isn’t polished, even though the routes are brilliant.  Mau starts with #38, 6a+ followed by Hagi Pau, 6a+.  It’s a real shame that the camping posse wuss out and go back to Siurana – they missed some excellent pocket-pulling.  I onsight a brilliant 6b+, Tranquilo Majete dedicated to said posse – maybe I can tempt them back as there’s sooo many routes here I need to send.

Siurana Village   Hagi Pau, 6a+   2012-10-05 6 Cingles De Sant Joan

I flash the 6b opened by Mau, again very nice Esperraca-Vents which has a high 1st bolt but was a gem.  Leaving 1 hour for the descent, I have time to onsight #39, 6b+ another super climb, though a tad more difficult.  Then taking the Grau descent, 54 minutes later we arrive at the car in fading light, timed perfectly.  A quality sector, a quality day.

6a+   6a+   6b+   6b   6b+

2012-08-31 Montsant, Totxo De La Morera   Leave a comment

A welcome drop in temperature has arrived, but even with the improved conditions Javilongo and myself aren’t in the zone today.  It’s Friday afternoon and we’re both tired.  Taló Dret, 7a which I still can’t send, and I don’t even bother looking at Javi’s 7c+ project Fruto Di Marius.  Instead I onsight (just!) La Punyalada, 6b+ right next door (actually in Totxo Punyalada) and then struggle on another 6b+, K-K-Tua.  At least the view was on form…

View from the crag towards Falset & Llaberia.

7a   6b+   6b+