2012-08-02 Siurana, Can Melafots

The classic Pizza De Pinya, 7a kicked my backside when I tried it ages ago, so I wanted to mop up this great line.  We warm up on Derbi Paleta, 6a+ and Escal Que, 6b both old and both old school difficult.

Right next to them there’s another 6b and two 6c, but seeing the quality we move on to Pizza.  There’s a block move to get past the first bolt, then thin meandering climbing up to the roof.  I couldn’t send it – I felt like a child haunted by memories of fear by a not particularly scary thing but trapped in a regressed state of mind.  Still an awesome climb though, and Paco almost onsights it but blows it at the last move right under (and to the right) of the chain!  We also try Dishinibeix-te, 6b+, Toni’s 2008 POS, then onto the block start of May Thing Song A Les Zinc And Punk, 7a – typical of the start of Melafots – ridiculously hard move to get of the ground then average climbing.  We’ll return to send Pizza & Hostía, 7b.

6a+   6b   7a   6b+   7a