Alvaro Siscu (the physio) and Edu (the giant) are at Can Parásit, and when I arrive they’ve done one 6a and are now on the legendary 6c.  Warm up on the corner 6a, Cos Que Cao of Can Marges Adalt.  Then we clean El Tiempo Se Ha Reido De Los Que No Han Venido, 6c.  6c as a second route is still a little strong for me I fall at the crux, then get it on the second try.  Interestingly I go left not the right I had established last time.  I think left is the better way (but further left than I tried before).  I recommend a marvellous 6c+ to the boys and they go check it out.  Meanwhile, they’ve left El Pupes, 7a open for us.

I quickly flash Ateva, 6a+ to flush my forearms out of blood.  Álvaro gets on the El Pupes which he calls ‘biditlandia!’ – There’s a sequence of crappy monofinger and twofinger pockets to get past the first crux.  The second crux up top stumps him and after several tries he abandons it.  I tape up my fingers and try but leave it half undone – big Edu can clean it.

Ma Mola Molt, 6c+ is open and I have first crack.  The boys loved it – it is a beauty.  I still need to get pila to be able to flash this, it’s long with some long moves on it.  3 rests – first roof bulge, the horizontal crack with weeds and the giant water smoothed hole up top.  Alvaro top ropes it and we call it a day.

6a   6c   6a+   7a   6c+

Siurana is getting beyond a joke now on weekends.  Guiris, domingueros, gente.  They’ve even implemented a trial period parking attendant to manage the too little space for too many cars.  At the moment without charge, let’s just see if it lasts…  The day they charge to park your car is the day I stop going.

Up to Can Parásit to tick a few more routes.  I’ve been here before but I hadn’t ever set foot on the first route of the day, a pumpy 6a+ La Marabunta.  I should have done this second because after the punishment yesterday, I got pumped really quickly.  Then I repeated a nice 6a La Viuda Negra.  6b+ territory now with the slightly polished but excellent Kagarro Malababa.  I just missed the onsight, even with the good rest up top just before the final roof.

Roger was working a 7a at the end of the wall El Caganer Del Ruc.  Toni had a try on it and hangdogged a few times, and it looked difficult.  The start is a sequence of thin reachy block moves.  After I lower him down from the top I try it.  With the rope clipped up to the 2nd I worm my way up past the first crux which I simply couldn’t get past while pumped.  The next clip was strange, awkward positioning and balance, then up a vertical slab with a few pockets.  The next crux foiled my first 3 attempts and getting super-pumped, I dynoed Chris Sharmer-style up to the the lip… Toni was amazed.

After a long rest, Joan had left open the recommended 6c+ (“Best route in the sector – more like a 7a than 6c+”) Ma Mola Molt.  The first overhang is a little polished, reachy and blocky, but after that it is one joyous hold after another.  At 30 meters long, you need stamina to flash it but there are great moves – just thinking about it makes me smile.  And balance… you feel exposed at times pulling off some moves to the next hold, but it has everything, undercuts, crimps, pockets, monofingers, this is quality with a capital qual.  In contrast to yesterday when I reached up to the next hold and repeated “Uff! Es mala”  today was “Oh! Es buenissima!”.  What my posse call ‘Thank God Holds’.

6a+  6a  6b+  7a  6c+  Picasa