2016-05-30 Wales, Llanymynech

Technically, we’re not actually climbing in Wales, as the two sectors we visit today, Grid Iron Wall, and Nomad Wall, are a stone’s throw across the border into England.

Coming Of Age, 6a has one hard cruxy move on it with the rest being a steady amble to the chains, and is a reasonable warm-up.  But it’s very hot with the sun on most of Grid Iron, so we move into shade on Nomad Wall.  I had always wanted to do the 50mtr 6a, Southern Mountains and now was the perfect opportunity.  It’s a fun route… there’s a hard move to get past the first clip, and it’s steady climbing up to the intermediate lower-off (we didn’t want to do it in one giant pitch as the rope drag would’ve been bad).  So for 17 draws in total for the whole route, I take 10 thinking this will get me half way, but I run out of gear and miss the last bolt.  To the intermediate lower-off is a tight 35mtrs and I bring up my second.  The 2nd pitch to the top of the wall is only another 15mtrs, but there’s a little bit of a sting in the tale!  Great route, and recommended.

Now in the shade, I put the draws on Curfew, 6b+ for Becky to project.  A nice route this, in the Top50 list on UKC.  To finish a good day I run up Gaza Stripper, 6b, again 35mtrs.

6a   6a   6b+   6b