11 weeks ago I had the brilliant Papágora, 7b+ ready to send, but with rain, overcrowding, illness and various other circumstances it was shelved.  So it was with gusto to return to it today with Claudio.  I forego a warm up, remembering the rests on the classic and get straight to work.  But some of the details were forgotten and I’m relearning the high right foot – long move at the 7th bolt.  I also have to polish the little crimpy section just below the crux.  Just below the chain too was the right hand side pull that needs to be taken with the feet as high as possible.

A second try is fluffed at the double under-cling, but it’s all good mileage.  Claudio hangs a few times on it, but is impressed.  I love this route, it’s quality.

A warm down on Marieta De L’Ull Viu, 6a+ to finish, next time we’ll warm up on this then get on Papágora.

7b+   7b+   6a+

I was looking forward to trying Linus, 7b+ but we had a short day today, so just sending 3 nice routes – Alma, 6b  Sugopy, 7a and Super Esperó, 6b.  All three worth doing.

6b   7a   6b

The early morning Whatsapp changed my mind so I meet Xav up at Coll De Jou.  As always, it’s blowing hard and freezing cold up top at the parking above the quarry, but descend into shelter and I’m climbing without my shirt – beautiful.  We do Opri Refu, 6a (right hand variant finish) and while Xavier and David are doing more warm-ups, I’m getting ready at the far end of the crag, I’d marked Barrenari, 7a+ to do ages ago.  It looks nice and fairly straight forward till the 10 bolt, but my onsight is ruined at a technical move at the 4th.  Then I’m up to the crux at the roof, feet up and a long move to a crimp.  Very nice route, I send it second go.  Xav works Matsutake, 7a to the right, but the short day means I strip it and they’ll try it another time.  Relaxed, but just what the doctor ordered…

  

6a   7a+   7a+

So all the time I was telling people I was working Gollum, turns out it was ATP, 7c .  Gollum, 7b+ starts with the first 2 or 3 bolts and veers right.  Either way, a rose by any other name smells just as hard.  I give it a couple of tries today, with some new beta as Anton is going up to the 8a extension above it.  But I’m lesioned, don’t feel like it and my heart’s just not in it.

Meanwhile, Mili’s cleaning a new traverse put up a short while ago:

7c   7c

It feels like I haven’t touched rock for weeks, with the wind, cold, rain, lack of partners, and work… but today we’re back at Reina Mora, and even though I’m lesioned I’m trying the mighty Avatar, 7c.  Definite project this one.  Before this, we warm up on Aterriza Como Puedas, 6b and then the very nice Andrómedro, 7b.  This will be worth repeating too, Lluis onsights it and Javilongo just misses the flash as I do.  And then on to Avatar, 7c.  Only criticism – it’s on the chossy section, so watch out for falling debris.  But it’s got some great moves though…

6b   7b   7c

Only a short day so we’re at the nearest crag.  Roure has some nice things to offer, Infierno De Cobardes, 6a+ for a warmer, then on to the very nice but too short Ones Verticales, 6b.  I had Shargamanta, 6c+ pending and thought I’d just speed-climb it but I forgot a crucial foot during the cross up crux.  Second try sends it – at last.  To finish, I’m on the hard 6c+, Esduguardabaga which has a hard start, hard next section, hard middle and … yep, hard end.  I work it a little, and should send it next time I’m here.

Now to Ca La Sofia to put up the last of the routes…

6a+   6b   6c+   6c+   6c+

Ticking some classics today, the wonderful Drago, 6b and Rocky, 6b+ both superb, not just because they were onsights.  30mtrs of great climbing.  Warmed up, I move on to the nice looking 7a, Sugopy though the roof beats me.  I work it out and try it a second time.  When I fall at the crux I lower down to save energy, but even a third try can’t add it to my send list.  Next time here in this sector, I’ll save this as a warm-up, it having 6b till the crux sequence of 8 moves, then 6b till the chain.

Miki is bolting a new route, left of Arbre, 6c+ which should be around a 7a (“bouldery start, then easy”), he also gives us the beta for his other new 7a/+ route that crosses the diagonal 6c, Solo Tengo Ganas De Llorar, which by the way is one of the best 6c ever.  I have Linus, 7b+ pending, it has one block move up top.  Maybe next time…

6b   6b+   7a   7a   6c

Just finishing up the last of the 9mtr high routes on the new rocodrome in Ca La Sofia, excellently done by Antonio and the boys at Gargola Climbing.  I’ll post a topo when we finish the last route tomorrow, with any luck.

Still getting over the damn flu bug that wiped my Christmas and New Year, I feel like I’m just ticking over today as I redpoint the excellent 40mtr Haber Pedido Muerte, 6c+ for my warm up.  Just possibly the best 6c+ around.  La Millor De… 6c afterwards and then I can’t send a previous onsight, another nice 6c+, Trenca’m Els Pinyos.  I have the second and third pitches pending.  Javier & Pere play on it as the sun sets and the temperature drops to 5º.

6c+   6c   6c+

Today a relaxed day with the Centre Excursionista Maspujols.  A beautiful day sees us doing Baba i Resa, 5 and Pas De La Por, 5+ which share a single bolt anchor, which seems out of place in this well developed sector.  Jordi & Pep have done (and are continuing to do) a great job of not just cleaning rock and bolting lines, but laying stones & slabs for the path, and cutting back greenery and the like.

  

Moving right down the wall, L’Incertívol, 6a+ was very nice, and Cal Catalá, 6b and Cal Pubill Careter, 6b to finish.  There’s still the odd breakage and loose stone coming down, so care is needed.

5   5+   6a+   6b   6b